Dusty's SLC Build

Joel K

Supporter
Dusty,

Your build is looking good.

With regard to the intake, a few ideas...

1)How much room do you have between the wall and the throttle body? I have a 4” Cobrahead silicone intake tube that may work. It needs about 2” of clearance.

2)Most feeding a supercharger cut away a piece of the frame and weld in support. Then run a 120 degree 4” elbow to the throttle body.

3)ITB setup

4)Also, a high mount intake like Mark B is running places the intake tube the way you want..
 
You sure are helpful Joel. I dont have a throttle body yet but even without one i only have 4 inches from the inlet of the intake manifold to the firewall. once i mount the throttle body there will only be a couple inches. id rather not cut anything. trying to keep it as simple as possible.

i think that cobrahead elbow idea may just work. im crunching that idea now. im a little concerned that this will restrict airflow.
I like the ITB but i dont like the lack of air filters with those. i will be driving this car in dusty conditions where i live.

and thanks for the video Joel. This intake consept by mark may work great. im looking up those manifolds. i need to find the one he is using

the simplist solution may be a combination of a 90' elbow off the stock manifold and then use a side mount throttle body on the drivers side like Mark did. I could use a 90' elbow right out of stock intake manifold going to the passenger side and then mount the throttle body there at the side.

i like the filter mark is using k&N part RF-1024
 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Supporter
Could you do 2 90 degree angles together or a 180 degree single unit and mount the throttle body above the inlet, with the air filter behind that?

not shire how much headroom you have in a SLV engine bay

ian
 

Mark B.

Supporter
im looking up those manifolds. i need to find the one he is using
Hi Dusty, it's a Holley Hi-Ram :) I did have to customize (cut/weld) the intake lid, though, to add the elbow. I have a bunch of pics and happy to share more info if you need -- feel free to IM me.
 
I thought about putting a filter on top the intake. Until the fabricator welder can mock up the 8 into one, I dont want to limit the space on top the manifold. he may need that space.

i measured carefully last night. I t would be difficult to get an elbow on the stock manifold if the throttle body is in place on the stock manifold. the trottle body is 70mm thick. the cobra elbow may fit but it would be jammed against the firewall. there might be about 2.5 inches of space available for the cobra elbow but it would be tight.

thanks for the post Mark. I sent a PM to get some pics of the fab work you did on the intake manifold
i may need a lower profile intake than the holly hi ram manifold to help with the 8 into one exhaust that will loop some what over the top/rear of the engine. i am loooking at the mid mount fabricated manifold as a starting point

Mark is there a reason you went with the high rise besides more power?
Were you able to tune the car fine with the TB mounted as you did?
90mm TB?
was that 4" silicone tube?
 

Mark B.

Supporter
thanks for the post Mark. I sent a PM to get some pics of the fab work you did on the intake manifold
i may need a lower profile intake than the holly hi ram manifold to help with the 8 into one exhaust that will loop some what over the top/rear of the engine. i am loooking at the mid mount fabricated manifold as a starting point

Mark is there a reason you went with the high rise besides more power?
Were you able to tune the car fine with the TB mounted as you did?
90mm TB?
was that 4" silicone tube?
Hi Dusty, Here's a video that shows the intake mods pretty well. I'll look for more detailed pics as well to send you.
A couple reasons for the high-rise: 1) power at higher RPM. My engine revs to 8k so this intake works well. 2) Allowed me to place the AC compressor in the intake valley. Since my dry sump pump is where the AC compressor usually goes 3) looks good :)
TB is 102mm
I used 5" for the aluminum elbow, piping, and silicone bends. It's a bit overkill, but I also have a total of 2 90-degree bends and 1 45 so I wanted to err on the side of caution.
 
Dusty - I used that same crimping tool for my AC hoses. Take my advice - don’t pay attention to the marks and compress your fittings until the tool bottoms. I first went up to, and only up to, the mark - every single fitting leaked. I then went 1/16”-1/8” past the mark - I recently found one small leak (who knows if there are more). My father in law recently completed an install with the same tool, except he bottomed the tool out on every fitting - leak tight. YMMV of course.
 
Thanks Mark. I watched all your videos. They are very helpfull. great to see you build a High revving LS. Pushrod LS motors can spin. Last night i baught a couple of these builder throttle body plates and some 4" aluminum tube and a 102mm throttle body. Im going to see if i can use the factory intake manifold and make a Throttle body adapter to put the throttle body on the driver side of the motor like you did. if it doesnt work ill fab a manifold like you did.

Cam I have read every page of your build and your web blog and noted your experience with the crimper and how you had loose fittings originally before you recrimped them tighter. I did a little test after i crimped my first fitting. On this first large fitting i only crimped to the line like the instructions said. I then put the crimped fitting in the vise and gave the ac hose a small tug. The hose popped out of the fitting!!
So ya, you need to tighten the fittings down way past the line. on my crimps my "feel" has me tightening the fittings to almost bottomed out.
 
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I started making some brackets for the dry shampoo oil tank and to hold the oil filter and oil cooler diverting valve. To attach the brackets I’m using some racing 2 inch aluminum clamps. They are absolutely solid. With these clamps you can move items Around and easily remove them.
 

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The oil filter mount I’m using requires that you manually select how much oil will be flowing to the oil cooler. You have to do it manually. Most of the time I will probably have it just slightly on to aerate and then as I test the system I’ll decide how much oil I want diverging to the cooler.

Of note, If anyone else wants to use in there are some brand new ones for sale on eBay right now for $65. Beautifully made parts
 

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
Mine is in the same location and fit fine (with the body on). I would recommend you slide it rearward on the horizontal square tubing about 1 1/2 inches if possible.
I had a really bad experience buying online from Circle Track Supply Inc a couple of years ago.
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Mine is in the same location and fit fine (with the body on). I would recommend you slide it rearward on the horizontal square tubing about 1 1/2 inches if possible.

From the pics you share it looks like where I have my tank now may hit the air scoop in the side of the body in front of the rear passenger wheel. I’ll move it back. The nice thing about these clamp on brackets is that they offer a lot of flexibility on Mount placement
 
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I went with Stephen’s idea of putting the oil coolers in the rear diffuser. They really do fit well here but the problem naturally is that the splitter is somewhat compromised with the airflow being disrupted by the oil coolers. On a positive note the brackets for the oil cooler is greatly stiffen up the rear diffuser. I’m using some high temperature self stick foam from McMaster to secure the oil coolers in the brackets. You’ll note that I had to cut the normal mounting tabs off of the coolers to make this work. Once they are in place there is no metal touching metal and they are very secure
 
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