Rich, This first part is done with the trans on the floor. The first thing I did was remove to top cover on the RBT. Drill and tap for 1/2 NPT into the boss that is already there for exactly that purpose. It sits directly on top of the output drive gears. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN it before you put it back on so you don't get shavings in the box. There is a paper gasket that has no sealing compound on it so be careful when dealing with this and you won't destroy the gasket. Then install a 1/2 NPT to AN-12 male to male adapter. Tape it off or cap it to keep things clean. I did all this at the same time I was doing all the mods that are required to the shift linkage that SPF provides. Just in case you were unaware, the supplied parts for the linkage (at least on the early cars) doesn't even come close to fitting and need to be cut, bent re-welded etc. I have a service bulletin on how this is all done. It will take a solid day to mod the linkage if you want it to look good when you're done. Then you ignore this until the engine/trans is in.
The "pump" is made up of billet aluminum pieces I made and bolted it to the bottom of the trans at two points on the back. I removed the two nuts and replaced them with 8mm x 1.25 SS standoffs that are 36mm long. (available from McMaster-Carr). Then bolted the "pump" to those standoffs (see photo). The "pump" is NOT the lowest point on the back, if fact its' bottom is well above the frame rails that run along side so there is no threat of breaking something off. Then just plumb it over to your trans cooler with the proper AN bits and pieces. I powder coat everything I make because it's easier than falling out of bed and it will always look nice. I'm not plugging for Eastwood here but they have a great powder coat setup that's less than $200 for everything you need and you can pick up and old kitchen oven at a yard sale for $25. I powder coated every single piece I made on this car. You can't believe how easy it is.
Two important side notes: 1) All this was done in consultation with Lloyd at RBT so I didn't do anything to void the warranty. The only real mod to the trans was the hole in the top which as stated, is what the boss is for. 2) After all this is done you will have the entire system plumbed for real should you decide to put in a real electric pump. Just move the hose from the fake pump to the drain hole and run it up to a pump before the cooler.
Why did I do a fake setup? In talking to several people, Lloyd included, the consensus is to NOT cool the trans oil unless you are racing, it causes more problems than is solves. I could have put a real pump in with a shutoff valve or temp switch but that would have been several hundred dollars more for something I KNEW, I would never use. I posted a question several months ago about how to "fake it up" and got flamed something fierce, so I did it myself. Let the flaming begin