GTD40 Restoration

[Randy V]

Check out small bore ball hones for the lifter bores::
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=Lifter+bore+flex+hone[/ame]

I have used brake wheel cylinder hones as well but they are pretty aggressive and tight in some circumstances..

 

[Andy]

Found one honing for the lifter bores for 13$ partnumber BRH-BC7824
gonna add to the wishlist ;O)

 

[Randy V]

Looks good Andy...

I would suggest using a bit of Automatic Transmission Fluid in a cup to soak the tool in before honing each bore. As I recall, one of your bores may be a little chewed up. You may have to have the machine shop address that.
We have had bronze sleeves installed in lifter bores also - but it was anything but cheap...

 

[Andy]

Small step today, mounted the evaporator.
Plan is to mount the drier just behind it in the corner.
No AC hoses in the front compartment but routing them directly to the sidewall into the wheelarch towards the condensator. It makes routing much easier.

 

[Andy]

Fixed the clutch lever/fork. The clip was broken.
After some research I found the clip at SJ Sportcars (UK),
it is partnumber A082F6231F and costs about 8 pounds.
A lot of other webstores didn't had this item on stock.
It seams to come from a Lotus.

 

[Andy]

After couple of hours grinding, trial fitting, grinding (bit tricky to fit a tube in 2 angles).
Glad I was able to weld the top side plate to the breams and they fit nicely. Support beams can now be shipped for the powdercoater.
When these come back I can finally close the backside of the cabine with some titanium sheets (for the looks and heat reflecting)
and mount the new suspension :drunk:

 

[Andy]

Need a bit of help here with the top drain/connection of the radiator adapter and guiding it to the reservoir.
First of all, my radiator has 2 bleed screws without a hose/tube connected to the reservoir. I am planning to fix this but I have troubles finding a good adapter in the reservoir to hook up to a tube or hose.
To my measurements the current bleedscrew has a 3/8 BSPT thread with fine thread 26 or 28....
Suggestions are welcome.

For the routing from the top radiator to the reservoir, it is advised to use 3AN or 4AN hose size, but I guess a brake line will also work.
Also for the selection of hose and routing I am looking for your advise.

 

[Andy]

No plumbing experts in the room ? :shy:

 

[Mike Pass]

Hi Andy,
Not sure what type of pipe you want to connect but there are plenty on EBay for rubber pipe. You could always drill out the fittings you have and solder in an adaptor for the Braided type.

Eg.

BRASS MALE BSPT HOSE TAIL FITTINGS - 1/8" TO 2" WATER, FUEL, GAS, OIL | eBay

Stainless Steel Hosetails 316, bsp Thread Hose Tail Barb Connector | eBay

Cheers
Mike

 

[Mike Pass]

Or AN connector

Motamec AN -6 AN6 JIC To 3/8" BSPT Thread 3/8x19 Alloy Fitting Adapter | eBay

 

[Andy]

Hi Mike,
Thanks for the links.
Most of the BSPF 3/8 has a pitch of 19 while I am looking for 24, so a fine thread. Looks like this is very rare and not commonly used.
Perhaps soldering or tapping another size is a better way out as you mentioned.
Regards
Andy

 

[Ian Anderson]

Andy

Try Think Automotive in Twickenham

They have always turned up every type of connector and combination I have needed
Welcome Think Automotive - bespoke automotive plumbing.



Ian

 

[Howard Jones]

here

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-engines-induction-exhaust/16551-radiator-bleed-valve.html

And here with the additional rear of intake manifold lines to header tank

 

[Andy]

Hi Howard,
I studied the routing of the GTD40 and if I am correct, there is something strange to my feeling making it not efficient.
Attached I made a sketch how I gonna make it, it need to small reweld of the small tubes on the metal tubes just before the engine.
I have attached 3 sketches
1. My plan (in blue, called Andy)
2. How it was in this car - how the hell the heater must get a flow ;O)
3. Template for your own purposes.

Looking to other GTD40's, I think the lower metal tube with its 16 mm tube, goes direct to/from the heater matrix in the ac unit. I am really wondering how the rest of the hoses are connected in that case. If someone can use the template a draw it on the template to help understand ?

 

[Andy]

So far I have seen 3 GTD40's and none of them had a vent hose at the top of the radiator...

 

[Andy]

Talking to myself :sleeping:

I found this on a very old GT40 forum.

GT40 Replica Forum: what do you do for a radiator?

You need to run the largest radiator core that you can. Also you need to run a 'vent' pipe, about 1/4" diameter, from the top of the radiator outlet side tank back to the main filler/header tank. This will vent the radiator and stop airlocks. I know this from experience as I run a GTD40 with a 400bhp, 302 in hillclimbs and sprints in the UK. I had overheating problems until I fitted this vent pipe and all my problems were solved.

Looks like I my feeling is right about the need for venting the radiator however wondering why the onces without venting do not overheat....:huh:

 

[Malcolm]

There are two stages to bleeding the air from a GTD, you let the air in the engine out at the engine end and you let the air in the rad out at the radiator end. Simple. Once you have driven the car a short way repeat the exercise and it is soon done. Once the rad is full of water where can the air get in? Only from the engine end so make that end self bleed and you don't have any issues at the radiator end. The only way to connect a pipe from rad to header tank is to route it over the top of the car ie in the spider roof which is no small job. Else you will get airlocks which defeats the purpose of the exercise! Open the bleed valve on the radiator as you fill the system with water and when water comes out close it up. An ali rad is a good idea over original GTD rad if you are going on track. Docking or Pace make good ones.

 

[Andy]

Hi Malcolm,
Thanks, this make sense.
Is this the reason with GTD40's why the reservoir is hooked upto the top metal tube - water coming out of the engine from the thermostat housing... instead of the metal tube at the bottom water going into the waterpump (suction area) ?

 

[Brett James-McCall]

Sorry Andy, just seen this.

You can see the rear bleed for the engine in this photo here: http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/15571-bretts-rs-gtd-13.html#post472242

For the rad I did this: http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/15571-bretts-rs-gtd-13.html#post472242

 

[Malcolm]

Air has to be taken from the high point in an engine else it gets trapped. Hence the GTD take off point. Some aftermarket inlet manifolds at the rear of the engine have been known to cause issues depending on how they feed water across the heads so sometimes a bleed line is taken from the rear of the inlet manifold to the header tank as well.