Fabulous! What a great project.
Dave
Dave
Jason's Coyote Powered RCR40 Downunder
- Thread starter jferraro
- Start date
Block Plate and Drive by Wire Stabilisation
I knew I needed a block plate between the transaxle and engine but was avoiding it! As I have a Ricardo transaxle that bolts directly to the Coyote engine (I love that) I have no adapter plate and need to close off caps that could let a lot or rubbish into the clutch assembly, not good!
I finally decided to design one up in CAD to have it laser cut. I designed the part and made a cardboard template. The block plate may also be important in setting up the correct pilot bearing engagement but I definitely needed it to close up some of the engine and transaxle "gaps".
I made a cardboard template from my CAD drawing and then had the part laser cut from 1.5mm stainless steel. OE Coyote one is 1.7mm but I only wanted 1.5mm.
I also wanted to close out the round hole on the LHS of the engine block and a simple circular disc was attached to the plate with a nutsert.
At the top of the block plate I extended the plate with two holes to assist in stabilising the throttle drive assembly. I have reversed my InnoV8 8-stack to clear the high mount alternator so this modification was required.
All in all it was a great outcome. All holes lined up perfectly and I have 2 spare ones as well in case I ever need any more!
I knew I needed a block plate between the transaxle and engine but was avoiding it! As I have a Ricardo transaxle that bolts directly to the Coyote engine (I love that) I have no adapter plate and need to close off caps that could let a lot or rubbish into the clutch assembly, not good!
I finally decided to design one up in CAD to have it laser cut. I designed the part and made a cardboard template. The block plate may also be important in setting up the correct pilot bearing engagement but I definitely needed it to close up some of the engine and transaxle "gaps".
I made a cardboard template from my CAD drawing and then had the part laser cut from 1.5mm stainless steel. OE Coyote one is 1.7mm but I only wanted 1.5mm.
I also wanted to close out the round hole on the LHS of the engine block and a simple circular disc was attached to the plate with a nutsert.
At the top of the block plate I extended the plate with two holes to assist in stabilising the throttle drive assembly. I have reversed my InnoV8 8-stack to clear the high mount alternator so this modification was required.
All in all it was a great outcome. All holes lined up perfectly and I have 2 spare ones as well in case I ever need any more!
Pete McCluskey.
Lifetime Supporter
You are doing a sensational build Jason, not long now.
Not so sure about that. Still seems like there is a lot to do yet. Back out to the workshop tonight!
Any plans for this or part numbers used? Several of us are doing a Coyote version and will need something like this!
The AC compressor wouldn't be a YC2559 would it?
I would like to see it running first! I'm sure it will be OK but you never know.
Fuel System and Water Plumbing
I sought some advice on the fuel system and was happy with the recommendation to fit a pretty simple system. From a pump point of view I opted for a custom in tank solution (passenger side). This is a very neat and simple solution. I have opted to modify the chassis to accept later design RCR separate tanks for a bit of added safety.
The fuel pump was recessed into the tank with some custom alloy parts I made.
This allows the tank to slide into the chassis.
The fuel filter was placed in the compartment behind the tank on the LHS of the car.
The LH and RH tank are balanced with a cross line under the car. It is on top of the stainless steel bar that protects the front of the sump and is protected from the top with a billet alloy bar.
A pump can be added in the RHS of the car to transfer the fuel if it does not siphon to the LHS tank. It probably will not but I would like to see if it does.
WATER
The plumbing pipes were completed and fitted. The were ceramic coated on the inside and out to limit heat transfer to the chassis.
At the front you can see the nylon blocks that hold the tubes securely. The red alloy bar that runs the length of the car is the way I get power from the battery to the alternator and starter. Much lighter and simpler than a copper cable (lower alloy electrical conductivity allowed for).
All plumbing installed. As with all GT40's, its getting tight but I'm managing to keep it neat!
I sought some advice on the fuel system and was happy with the recommendation to fit a pretty simple system. From a pump point of view I opted for a custom in tank solution (passenger side). This is a very neat and simple solution. I have opted to modify the chassis to accept later design RCR separate tanks for a bit of added safety.
The fuel pump was recessed into the tank with some custom alloy parts I made.
This allows the tank to slide into the chassis.
The fuel filter was placed in the compartment behind the tank on the LHS of the car.
The LH and RH tank are balanced with a cross line under the car. It is on top of the stainless steel bar that protects the front of the sump and is protected from the top with a billet alloy bar.
A pump can be added in the RHS of the car to transfer the fuel if it does not siphon to the LHS tank. It probably will not but I would like to see if it does.
WATER
The plumbing pipes were completed and fitted. The were ceramic coated on the inside and out to limit heat transfer to the chassis.
At the front you can see the nylon blocks that hold the tubes securely. The red alloy bar that runs the length of the car is the way I get power from the battery to the alternator and starter. Much lighter and simpler than a copper cable (lower alloy electrical conductivity allowed for).
All plumbing installed. As with all GT40's, its getting tight but I'm managing to keep it neat!
Lovely job as usual Jason....
Thanks Fran. The tanks you sent worked great.
Time to Pull the New Engine Apart!
Decided to fit stage 3 cams and a billet oil pump to the engine. Never done it before and with the help of a mate (thanks J. Bolger) we got it done. We will know when it starts if its done right! Always have a mate help in case it detonates!
OE cams shown below are an interesting item. Made up of pressed tubes and lobes. Comp Cams replacement are traditional 1 piece items with large counterweights.
Then it was time to put the clutch assembly on the engine and throw the lot back in the car again.
Lucky its a real small drivetrain! It is nice to bolt the engine directly to the transaxle. Looks neat and all the money saved on the extra bolts helps to pay for the transaxle!
It will come out again! Making the mounts with locators and designing parts for quick removal (dry break fittings on fuel and hydraulic clutch lines is a must if its to be easy and clean). I always remove and refit on my own so it needs to be easy to align. It now pretty much drops in.
Garage is looking less crowded as it all goes together.
With most of the engine parts back on it looks great. Next job is to start thinking about the electrics. Its going to be hard as I work for a company that is the leader in electrical connectors (TE Connectivity) so I cannot stuff that up!!
I think the extractors worked out well. I did not want a flashy polished look so just rubbed them with Scotch Brite pads. They have to come off to remove the engine but with 12 point ARP bolts the head size is 12mm so its not to bad. I really hope they discolor when heated as it will look great. They are fully ceramic coated on the inside, including all the collectors and mufflers etc. Burns Stainless parts are great and the design service offered regarding primary length etc. was also of great help.
I had custom made gaskets manufactured with metal flame rings and I have ~ 10 sets so I should be right.
Time to Pull the New Engine Apart!
Decided to fit stage 3 cams and a billet oil pump to the engine. Never done it before and with the help of a mate (thanks J. Bolger) we got it done. We will know when it starts if its done right! Always have a mate help in case it detonates!
OE cams shown below are an interesting item. Made up of pressed tubes and lobes. Comp Cams replacement are traditional 1 piece items with large counterweights.
Then it was time to put the clutch assembly on the engine and throw the lot back in the car again.
Lucky its a real small drivetrain! It is nice to bolt the engine directly to the transaxle. Looks neat and all the money saved on the extra bolts helps to pay for the transaxle!
It will come out again! Making the mounts with locators and designing parts for quick removal (dry break fittings on fuel and hydraulic clutch lines is a must if its to be easy and clean). I always remove and refit on my own so it needs to be easy to align. It now pretty much drops in.
Garage is looking less crowded as it all goes together.
With most of the engine parts back on it looks great. Next job is to start thinking about the electrics. Its going to be hard as I work for a company that is the leader in electrical connectors (TE Connectivity) so I cannot stuff that up!!
I think the extractors worked out well. I did not want a flashy polished look so just rubbed them with Scotch Brite pads. They have to come off to remove the engine but with 12 point ARP bolts the head size is 12mm so its not to bad. I really hope they discolor when heated as it will look great. They are fully ceramic coated on the inside, including all the collectors and mufflers etc. Burns Stainless parts are great and the design service offered regarding primary length etc. was also of great help.
I had custom made gaskets manufactured with metal flame rings and I have ~ 10 sets so I should be right.
Beautiful work. :thumbsup:
One question, what is the gold coloured thing on the nylon blocks? Is it just something to allow some expansion slippage?
One question, what is the gold coloured thing on the nylon blocks? Is it just something to allow some expansion slippage?
At the front you can see the nylon blocks that hold the tubes securely. The red alloy bar that runs the length of the car is the way I get power from the battery to the alternator and starter. Much lighter and simpler than a copper cable (lower alloy electrical conductivity allowed for).
Regarding your question, I actually wanted a snug fit when the tubes were fitted and this gold heat proof tape was handy. No science just needed a tighter fit and its gold flashy color just caught my eye!
Or I could say that I wanted to insulate the nylon from the tubes a bit with the reflective heat tape?
But you guys are too smart and would state its only good for radiant heat so I had better stick with the truth!
Or I could say that I wanted to insulate the nylon from the tubes a bit with the reflective heat tape?
But you guys are too smart and would state its only good for radiant heat so I had better stick with the truth!
Jason,
Have to say you are doing a wonderful job.I have a question or two on your crossover tube. What size hose are you using, and where is your return line. I tried having my return line to the secondary tank(no pump in driver side tank) and then the crossover to the main tank. It didn't work. I had gas spewing out the vent line. It was either too small a tube for the crossover or the flow from the high pressure pump was too high and exceeded the flow of the crossover line. I solved the problem by putting a T in line on the return and having it go to both tanks. The one to the main tank was place at or near the fuel pickup. One other thing you might want to consider is adding a reservoir at your in tank pumps location(if feasible). My main tank has a trap door that helps hold fuel around the pickup, and I think it does a good job. The idea is to slow down the flow away from the pickup, and to help keep up when the fuel sloshes to the front. I also put my sending unit in this area as well. It is a good gauge of how much fuel is around the pickup and when it is a good time to start thinking about filling up. So far the low pressure pump is still ticking.
Bill
Have to say you are doing a wonderful job.I have a question or two on your crossover tube. What size hose are you using, and where is your return line. I tried having my return line to the secondary tank(no pump in driver side tank) and then the crossover to the main tank. It didn't work. I had gas spewing out the vent line. It was either too small a tube for the crossover or the flow from the high pressure pump was too high and exceeded the flow of the crossover line. I solved the problem by putting a T in line on the return and having it go to both tanks. The one to the main tank was place at or near the fuel pickup. One other thing you might want to consider is adding a reservoir at your in tank pumps location(if feasible). My main tank has a trap door that helps hold fuel around the pickup, and I think it does a good job. The idea is to slow down the flow away from the pickup, and to help keep up when the fuel sloshes to the front. I also put my sending unit in this area as well. It is a good gauge of how much fuel is around the pickup and when it is a good time to start thinking about filling up. So far the low pressure pump is still ticking.
Bill
It is important to note that the in-tank high pressure pump assembly I'm using has an integral catch tank and return. It is a "dead head" system so it has an internal regulator. So out of the LHS tank there is simply a supply, no return. I was worried about a dead head system but when I found out its used in V8 Supercar racing etc. The integral unit has a pick-up on the bottom and also a hose connection that I ran to the lower corner of the tank. The tank is also fitted with foam to stabilise the fuel.
This approach meant the cross over line (-6) does not have to handle any return fuel load.
I like your tank flap but I hope with my integral catch can and foam fill I can do without.
This approach meant the cross over line (-6) does not have to handle any return fuel load.
I like your tank flap but I hope with my integral catch can and foam fill I can do without.
Can anyone tell me if a coolant "vapor" or "bleed" line is mandatory from the top of the radiator to the rear overflow bottle? I can do it but its a long line from front to back. If the lack of it means I need to bleed when first filling the system I could deal with that. See the line I am referring to below:
![rad[1].JPG](http://www.gt40supercharged.com/gt40_images/rad[1].JPG)
Any suggestions appreciated.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Jason
I don't have a bleed line on mine.
when filling I need to crack off a bleed screw and get air out.
About once a year I repeat the "burp" process and well last year was greated with no air - just coolant so I giess not necessary after first fill and a few miles / start ups under it's belt.
My Rover based lumpp is nose down and so I have extra bleed from the rear of the heads to the expansion tank
Ian
I don't have a bleed line on mine.
when filling I need to crack off a bleed screw and get air out.
About once a year I repeat the "burp" process and well last year was greated with no air - just coolant so I giess not necessary after first fill and a few miles / start ups under it's belt.
My Rover based lumpp is nose down and so I have extra bleed from the rear of the heads to the expansion tank
Ian
I recommend a small diameter bleed line as it provides full time maintenance free bleeding. When I change the coolant I drive, let it self bleed, and check/fill the system until it stays full. I also T'eed one in from the highest point on the intake manifold. These were definitly part of the cooling cure and I don't even run the fans unless I get stuck in traffic.
Mark C.
Mark C.
Thanks Mark for the comment. Anyone else have experience without this line and the issues?
Dylan, regarding the circular disc, it really is a neat fit but I will keep an eye on it. Thanks.
Dylan, regarding the circular disc, it really is a neat fit but I will keep an eye on it. Thanks.
Hi Jason
No return bleed on my car just a bleed screw at the top of the radiator to open when filling the system and thats it. Ive had no overheating issues even at idle on the hottest days with the A/C on. The DRB guys do run things a little differently to your schematic though,they run an extra resevior in the top rad hose with the cap on it next to the header tank.
Darrell
DRB#46 LS1/G50
No return bleed on my car just a bleed screw at the top of the radiator to open when filling the system and thats it. Ive had no overheating issues even at idle on the hottest days with the A/C on. The DRB guys do run things a little differently to your schematic though,they run an extra resevior in the top rad hose with the cap on it next to the header tank.
Darrell
DRB#46 LS1/G50
Can anyone tell me if a coolant "vapor" or "bleed" line is mandatory from the top of the radiator to the rear overflow bottle? I can do it but its a long line from front to back. If the lack of it means I need to bleed when first filling the system I could deal with that. See the line I am referring to below:
Any suggestions appreciated.
I would stay off the pressure side with your header tank. My experience, from your diagram you will be pulling coolant through the header tank from the pressure side to the suction side and putting pressure on the cap from the waterpump and heat expansion both.
i would run your #1 bleed line to the top of the suction side instead of the pressure side. Remove the #4 line completely it is not needed, maybe a bleed fitting. By putting the tank on the suction side you can run a very soft cap and still not crack the cooling system when hot.
