Mclaren M8b replica (visual)

Chris, the diagonal is set to clear the Rover distributor.
This may be the last car I build with a Rover engine because I have been looking at Lexus V8s on the net. On!y thing that scares me away is that I am a bit stubborn old school in that I don't want to sort out computers etc.
The Toyota V8 makes more power and I have found some excellent adaptor / conversion drawings.
Cost wise, I reackon that my Rover cost me around $3300.00 and that includes purchase, freshen ...hone ,new rings and bearings, race cam, timing chain, 4 x 40mm Del Orto carbs, and the port and polish mwork I did myself. I also built the engine from the short block stage.
Total cost of my drive train has ended up as follows...012 5 speed $350.00, clutch and p/plate. $300.00. Adaptor plate $100.00. Flywheel $450.00. Giving a total around the $4400.00 mark.
You can buy a good Toyota V8 from around $1500.00 to $3000.00 so there is room to think about it.
Any thoughts on the subject.
Don`t know but anything with wires and a knob qualifies ?
Got to finish this project first, its funny that before this one is finished..we are looking forward to the next, have always enjoyed building tube frames.
Hi Russell

The stock car guys use the Lexus and get rid of the EFI so that gets rid of the need for the computer stuff. They run a four barrel carb which the manifolds are easy to get and they put out over 400hp rev to over 8k and last forever. But they are not lite even though they are Alloy, the same as a SBC I'm told and that is mainly due to the Quad cam heads adding a lot of weight. They come std with 6 bolt mains and steel cranks and will do 600hp if you want to spend a bit of cash on them, in stock form they are 205kw. A very economical choice.

BUT you can't do a 3rd car before I finish mine, GEEEZZZ man, your making me look bad. LOL

Cheers Leon.
Hate to brag but it would be number 4 ( 3 1/2 done already ). Looks like I may have a formula junior chassis to do first.
Finally solved my lack of spark today.....dumb! I had a really good earth to the negative of the coil, once my sparky saw that it was wire removed and case closed. A quick crank and hey presto a massive fat spark so its down to the shed now to wake the neighbors up with its first run.
Hey Russell, given your current life's stresses, you are allowed the occasional Dumb, good news you have solved it, I hope things will improve for Carol, prayers and thoughts are with you both.
Well we have noise!!!
I managed to fire it up without too much drama after some timing issues. Double checked it again by hand rotation with the no 1 inlet opening then closing to TDC with timing marks agreeing. It started but was off song song so rotated the dizzy to get it running a bit smoother.(Not sure if its just the Crower Cam) Once I had all systems running, I then checked the timing with the strobe and it appeared miles out...and when I tried to rotate the dizzy closer to the mark, it ran rougher so left as was to run in the cam. Water temp was holding well at 85 deg, still don`t trust these electric pumps so will get an infred temp gun to check things even though it has good water flow. Its hard to tell if things are hot when you have a bunch of hot extractors radiating away. First start up is always anxious as there is all kinds of smoke and fumes from Hi Temp paint and exhaust wrap, once all that burnt off it was a little clearer. What sort of temp should one expect to see around the
Rover heads ?.
I was probably extremely optimistic just bolting the Del Orto`s on without doing a full service on them. I had pulled all the jets and checked them but sadly can not remember what jets were in my last carbs so will need to go and talk with Murray the carb guru.
The main thing is that its running now and did not go bang.
Thats one big milestone mate congrats, its always an apprehensive moment when you push the button for the first time, i know i always second guess myself, was this tight, was that the right way around etc you know the usual, then cross the figures and push the button and it makes beautiful music.

cheers Kaspa

Dave Bilyk

Dave Bilyk
Russell, well done, I'm always lurking and learning in the background here but your small timing issue reminds me of when I changed a timing chain case, and discovered that the timing pointer location was about 1/2" away from the original. Just in case.
Dave, thanks for the comments, i feel pretty sure that I am all lined up...even took a picture to remind myself. Once I talk to my Carby guru, I will run it again.


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Hey Jac i dosnt look like he has an option with the crank pulley he's got, cant see any other keyways. i know with mine the "dots" were way off the mark.

Always options John, in this case offset keys at either crank or cam, preferably camshaft can be used to correct any errors.
Yes thats true Jac, I also noticed its still a single row chain, and i know from personnel experience their notorious for stretching even with a stock cam, valve train, i fitted an after market double roller in the boat motor i had and never had any more issues, some thing you might want to consider Russel. as they also have multiple cam index key ways.

cheers Kaspa
No, its a Morse chain, very good stuff and not to be confused with a roller chain, a lot of folk think they are crap as they usually see them after a couple of thousand Km, but they self compensate for wear by design and if you ever take the time to pull a stuffed one apart you would think quite clever really. The 'real' problem is some manufacturers made sets with keyway machined in at 4° retard to comply with emissions standards of the day and if you get one of those sets and fit without checking you get that unrequested retard of cam timing.