Paul's RCR GT40 build

Paul T.

Supporter
Built rear clip support structure and brackets to rotate open. Made to adjust up and down and fore and aft.

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Paul T.

Supporter
Decided I wanted the roll bar behind the firewall and was to have it go up and out as far as it could. Have it be able to support the door latches, be better braced than the supplied bar and can use it as attach point for eng bay wings, rear clip latches and anything else that comes along. Built with 1.5 x .120 DOM tube. Will have backup plates for all base, support plates.

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Paul T.

Supporter
Thanks Chris and Walt. The thing that may be tight on a retrofit would be the dist. clearance depending on engine placement. Also the part I had to cut out of the rear clip because of the rear support braces.
 
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Paul T.

Supporter
After trying to adjust the doors, I wanted a better way to adjust the doors without having to shim between the hinge and chassis and be able to remove the door pin without having it on a bind. As others have done on their builds I changed the hinge to a heim joint. Now with the plates on the door lined up and not having to use them for adjustment the door pin pulls out easy for door removal or adjustment. Slotted the holes on the chassis horizontally and the hinge holes vertically. Cut the hinge, added a threaded tube and heim joint. Easy to adjust by loosening the bolts that hold the hinge to the chassis for up, down, fore and aft adjustment. Pulling the pin, adjusting the rod ends for in and out adjustment. Easier and more precise now, with no wiggle or slop.
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Paul T.

Supporter
Wanted the front clip to open and close the same as the rear. Removed what Scott had started using the RCR support structure and decided to follow others and build a tube support structure to hinge the front. Used heim joints in a tube mounted to a vertical slotted plate bolted to a horizontal slotted plate. Incorporated the condenser and radiator mounts also. Now it opens and closes smooth is very adjustable and solid. Can be removed by either taking the nuts off the end of the heim joints and slide out or take the heim to clip mount bolts out. Plan on using gas struts to hold open.
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Paul T.

Supporter
Continuing with the front clip to open by adding gas struts and working on the front air ducts. Cut the bump and bottom of the slide notch out and glassed back smooth for strut mounting and clearance. Used two gas struts and now it opens and closes with no effort and is smooth and solid. Using two part foam, cut, glued and shaped the molds for the ducts to fit the front clip. I plan on laying them up in haves and then glassing the haves to the clip.
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Paul T.

Supporter
Working on the A/C Condenser mounts, A/C and heater lines. Mounted the condenser using blocks and studs that fit into rubber grommets top and bottom. Running all hard lines for a/c and heater. Built mount for the dryer. Lines formed and routed just need to add insulation to them and mounting-support where they run thru the center spine. Also will be adding a heater shutoff valve. Will still have room for bleed line off radiator if needed.
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Chris Kouba

Supporter
...Will still have room for bleed line off radiator if needed.

I would highly recommend one, and have it run directly back to an input port on your header tank. Bleeding/purging the cooling system is a hassle and this will mitigate that. Mine runs from the top of the rad on the output side, through the spine, and up to the header tank.
 

Neil

Supporter
I would highly recommend one, and have it run directly back to an input port on your header tank. Bleeding/purging the cooling system is a hassle and this will mitigate that. Mine runs from the top of the rad on the output side, through the spine, and up to the header tank.
Having a "continuous bleed" line will prevent radiator air lock caused by nucleate boiling in the cylinder heads at high power levels.
 

Paul T.

Supporter
I would highly recommend one, and have it run directly back to an input port on your header tank. Bleeding/purging the cooling system is a hassle and this will mitigate that. Mine runs from the top of the rad on the output side, through the spine, and up to the header tank.

I like the idea of easier bleeding. I also question both Input and output for the radiator being on the bottom. Thinking about moving the input to the top. Seams like the Mark II cars were that way, just not sure of the benefit. All other crossflow radiators are top input and bottom output.
 

Paul T.

Supporter
Moved input on radiator to the top and added petcock to the bottom. Added radiator bleed line and working on fan shroud. Slots will have thin rubber flaps over them. Aluminum tubes will be zinc chromate primed with heat insulation then double wall shrink sleeve. Radiator tubes will be powder coated inside and out, stainless tubes thru the spline will have heat insulation wrap and double wall shrink sleeve also. Moving on to Alt. and A/C Comp. mounts for position to finish plumbing in engine bay.
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Paul T.

Supporter
Been working on Alt and A/C compressor positioning. Built mounts & brackets out of ¼ & 3/16 aluminum plate, with 5/8 aluminum round stock. Used fuel pump block off plate as mount for compressor lower adjustment mount. Now I know what space is available for coolant and A/C lines.

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Paul T.

Supporter
Finished bending the rest of the a/c and heater lines. Painted with
zinc chromate primer then wrapped with insulation and double wall shrink sleeve for chafe protection. Need to finish clamping on final assembly. Next up are the firewall wings on each side, Expansion tank and lines from engine to expansion tank.
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Tim Collins

Supporter
I noticed that you changed the RCR radiator. I been contemplating this because I've never seen both inlet and outlet on the bottom and not sure how to drain the system without making a mess.
 

Paul T.

Supporter
I noticed that you changed the RCR radiator. I been contemplating this because I've never seen both inlet and outlet on the bottom and not sure how to drain the system without making a mess.
Tim, I thought the same thing. It may or may not cool better but now I have a a way to drain it. When it's at the top it does make it tight with the double snorkel nose but I plan on modifying that also for better air flow.
 

Tim Collins

Supporter
Tim, I thought the same thing. It may or may not cool better but now I have a a way to drain it. When it's at the top it does make it tight with the double snorkel nose but I plan on modifying that also for better air flow.
Thanks for the quick reply! My solution is to add something like this to drain the system, where it exits the chassis near the engine. Thoughts? I also need to make a fan shroud. Can I ask why you put, what appear to be decorative slots in it?

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