RF #12 "Race" Chassis

re: RF #12 "Race" Chassis

Thanks to Doug 69 for coming through with an adapter kit and shifter / transaxle.
 
re: RF #12 "Race" Chassis

Off with the modified back end and back to RF Standard frame. Waiting for the laser cutters to cut new suspension brackets.
 

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Clayton

Supporter
re: RF #12 "Race" Chassis

Dave
Since the rear chassis has already been modified, have you considered lifting the rear bar up into the rear clip to hide it ??
Makes for a nice clean rear end :thumbsup:

Clayton
 
re: RF #12 "Race" Chassis

I looked at doing the rear clip mod , yours and Jim C's all looked fantastic but for some reason I wanted to put the chassis back to how it left the factory in the end. I will just fold up an alloy panel get it powder coated satin black and fit that.

I need to fibreglass the missing bit out of the lower rear clip as well.

Wheels are next......I want 15 or 16 inch wine glass style wheels. I have the Vintage 17inch BRM knock on type wheels which will have to go.
 
re: RF #12 "Race" Chassis

I am thinking a set of 15/ 16inch wheels from Image in the UK. I would get them powder coated in satin black. Just need to find tyres with same look.

 
re: RF #12 "Race" Chassis

These wheels from Team 3 are cheap......I had them on my FFR Coupe. Their quality was great as well but not the Wine glass I am looking for.

 
re: RF #12 "Race" Chassis

Making progress on the unkown rear end.....Kind of wish I put it back to a standard Rf set up with reverse A arm now. The rodends are 5/8 that join to the uprights but they are sleeved down to 3/8 bolts. Yes 5/8 sleeved down to 3/8........

I am wondering if I should drill the uprights lower mounting bolt holes from 3/8 to 1/2 inch. These rodends are mounted in single shear so am a bit worried the the little 3/8 bolts may bend.

I was also thinking that I might drop the 5/8 rodends and buy 1/2 inch rodends with a 5/8 thread so I dont have to modify the suspension links and I wouldn't need reducer bushings if I drilled out the lower mounting holes???

Any thoughts appreciated.
 

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re: RF #12 "Race" Chassis

Looking at that rear lower link arrangement, I would be concerned as to what prevents the Upright/Wheel flexing, or rotating around the upper mounting point as indicated by the yellow arrow on this picture below?
 

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Clayton

Supporter
re: RF #12 "Race" Chassis

Dave
I had the same thoughts and drilled the uprights out to 1/2" (using a mill), no problems at all. Don't have a close up of it, but you get the idea from below.

Mark
The rear link acts purely as a toe link. The forward set of uppers and lowers are effectively 'A' arms. This set up reduces roll steer as opposed to the reverse 'A' arm setup.

Clayton
 

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Finally got the rear suspension completed and working. I drilled out the rear uprights lower bolt holes to 1/2 inch bore and got some 5/8 thread 1/2 inch bore rodends so i could use the current arms. All works nice and smooth and a big thanks to Jim C for all his advice.

Body alignment next.........Oh the pain......
 

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Got some good progress this break.

Nose panel Dzused on.
Panels aligned....need plenty of filler to fix bad gaps.
Door handles inner and outer working
AU Falcon ADR37/01 compliant engine fitted with new gearbox mounts made. Gearbox has to come out again for painting and fitting of flywheel and so on.
Will swap to 8 Stack after rego.

Next job brakes. Swapping the brakes down to smaller items so I can fit 15 inch Wheels.
 

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Been chipping away at the 40 as time allows......Got some fuel caps...always liked the Cobra caps better so on they went.

Frame is now Satin black
Exhaust is done just needs welds smoothed
Battery fits like a glove.....
Engine wiring harness is seperated from the AU falcon harness, fitted with chip. Engine starts.....
 

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Hopefully this works.....The Missus had to hold the ignition power on and I fogot to tell her there are no pipes on the motor......She got out of the way quick.

Here's the link if you're bored......

start up - YouTube
 
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