Thanks Tony
I would have 50 or 60 G clamps.
My wife could never figure out why so many.
Hi Marco
Thanks for the comments
Post 54 was the first up right I made, post 93 was the second.
Post 54 was all made of tube steel, I found it was a lot of work and I was not happy with the way I had to attach the steering arm.
The inner (small 5 tubes) tubes are plug welded through the inner and outer main tubes.
When the end covers go on all tubes are welded to the covers.
Very strong but to complex to make.
Post 93 I said it is made of 6061 T6 that was wrong it is 5083 alloy.
6061 is bar stock 5083 is plate.
From memory it is about 40mm 5083 t6 plate.
p 93 was much easier to make it was a matter if mounting it on a face plate and boring the hole in the centre to size.
Place the bearing in the hole and transfer punch the bearing mounting holes.
Drill the holes and that is done.
A spacer was made between the bearing and upright to give the offset required.
Its cheaper to make a spacer than start out with a thicker upright and machine it off to suit the offset.
The lower joint hole is 3/4unf, this was drilled on the centre line of the bearing hole.
It is drilled in the centre of the plate.
The upper ball joint block is bolted on with 4 m8 cap bolts, it has enough offset from the lower joint to give 6.5 deg inclination.
It is 5/8 unf, if you choose to change the inclination you change the block and the upper arm length, adjustable inclination.
The upright has a rebate machined in it to house the top block, this reduces the stress on the 4x m8 bolts and puts the load into the upright.
The wheel bearing is a hub style bearing of what we call a VT commodore, the front brakes are of a VE commodore it was used because it has a lower hat height on the disk, this was done to reduce the distance from the ball joints to the wheel flange ,a bit here a bit there allowed me to get 3" longer suspension arms, I was chasing a reduction in roll centre movement as it makes the car more predictable.
All the outer shapes where band sawn and faced on the linisher all done to scribe lines.
The steering arm mounts via the 2 lower bearing mounting bolts, this allows me to change ackerman and arm length if required.
The alloy upright design is so more versatile in lots of ways.
The welded tube version if you wanted to make a change you have to remake the whole thing over.
Not the way I like to design some parts.
hope it helps feel free if you need more info.
Jim