Scotland Tornado

[Ian Bissett]

Jason,
Its a UN1 box I bought from Tornado also with an LSD upgrade.
Ian

 

[Ian Bissett]

Talking of UN1 gearboxes, give or take, does anyone know approx how much oil is needed to fill the UN1 box; I need to buy some this weekend?

 

[Keith Stafford]

Bill, Ian

I'm finishing off a Tornado with double nostril, which like yours is half depth, rather than mod the nostrils, I was thinking of putting an ally deflector place at the bottom of the rad to push the air up and close off the air flow to the front bay. I also plan to have vanes to deflect the air in the centre (of the plate) over to each nostril, what do you think?


Regards


Keith

 

[Scott Calabro]

Talking of UN1 gearboxes, give or take, does anyone know approx how much oil is needed to fill the UN1 box; I need to buy some this weekend?

Three liters.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Kieth,
If you do as you say it will decrease the flow of air through the radiator. I am sure my setup is decreasing some flow, but yours only goes down about half way. Mine starts the curve further back and the air is better allowed to exit. Take a look at my pics again.

Bill

 

[Keith Stafford]

Hi Bill

Would love to see more pix of yours, i noticed (i think) a small deflector flap you have at the bottom of the rad. I realise that fundamentally the nostril size is an issue.


Keith

 

[Bill Musarra]

Kieth,
Here are some old pics that I came across. They are from the "construction' phase just before it went to the painter, and some other shots I came across.

Notice that the nostrils have been cut back further than the original opening. You want the slope to be even and not steped. The one thing you don't want to do do is create a situation whereby you cut down on the amount of air going through the radiator. I don't know how tight your bonnet is, so if you create a dam to not allow the air beyond the nostrils, you will be blocking any "alternative" pathways that are present without the dam. Mine is pretty tight and at one time I had rubber seals between the upper rails of the sides of the frame that sealed up against the bonnet itself. So I had little else to expell any air that didn't go out the nostrils. Thereby making them as big as I could. My dam is there just to block the heat transfer to the footwells. It is made of 1/8" thick rubber mat. I used common L brackets to support them. I also super insulated the footwells with Dynamat 1/2" I believe. On long trips my feet don't get the least bit warm.

Bill

 

[Keith Stafford]

Thanks Bill

yours is a good template (to copy), it looks to be a fantastic finish when painted. I like the way you closed off the central part of the nostils to break the air flow to the nostrils. I'll keep this all in mind for the rework.

Keith

 

[Ian Bissett]

Well, all the plumbing is connected, most of the wiring complete and the gearbox is now oil filled (thanks for the info Scott). I've started to fill the tanks with fuel, but using a small 5l container takes a few visits to the petrol station. Next up, I need to put in water coolant.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a reasonable coolant that also has corrosion inhibitor additives? Also, typically how much coolant is needed?

Thanks again all

 

[Ian Anderson]

Ian

13 litres in the Dax!
And I do not have a cabin heater (SVA compliant electric heater fans to demist the screen)

Ian

 

[Ian Bissett]

Gear shift mechanism fitted, all working nicely. Filled the system with Castrol 4Life water, took around 17 litres. There were a few leaks as I was filling up but they were limited to a few loose jubilee clips only, once tightened all leaks went. Filled up the offside petrol tank and calibrated the level sender. Started to fill the nearside petrol tank and realised I had a leak, but again it was a loose jubilee clip on the fill nozzle; harder to fix but fortunately I fitted access holes in the front wheel arch section so this made it more manageable. All final wiring is now hooked up and the car is pretty much ready for its first start. Apart from the noise, heat (and toxic gas accumulation), is there any reason why I should not start the engine without the exhaust e.g. can the lack of backpressure damage the valves/engine?
Cheers
Ian

 

[Keith Stafford]

Looking good Ian

What did you use for the rear clam locators?

One reason not to start would be all the clearing up and aluminium polishing after the splatter,... i understand the temptation though,.... as Oscar Wilde said the only way to beat temptation is to yield to it, personally I would get the exhaust on first.

I am not sure about the theory of plugging waves and back pressure etc on four strokes, so my opinion is worthless.

regards

keith

 

[Andy Sheldon]

Keith

The rear body section locators are our standard item.

Thanks

Andy

 

[Keith Stafford]

Andy

is that item 40-87, Front and rear body section locators. ( set of 8 )?

Keith

 

[Andy Sheldon]

Keith

Yes

Thanks

Andy

 

[Keith Stafford]

OK Andy

will have to get a set.

Keith

 

[Keith]

is there any reason why I should not start the engine without the exhaust e.g. can the lack of backpressure damage the valves/engine?
Cheers
Ian

I believe it will cause the valves to overheat/burn. Not sure why I know this, but it has lurked in the back of what passes for a brain, for over 50 years..

 

[Bill Musarra]

Ian I agree that yo need the exhaust. the temp difference will cause the valves to warp. the dragsters of the sixties that had the up turned exhaust had to install tennis balls in the exhaust to slow down the cool down after their nitromethane runs. The lenght of the exhaust allows a slow cool down as well.

Bill

 

[Ian Bissett]

In a couple of weeks the car will be sent down to Andy for its IVA. He is also going to fit the exhaust, drive shafts and change out the valve cover for the Gurney cover that Tornado supply. All I'm left to do is align the headlights..........meanwhile, the car has now moved up from the workshop to the houseleased:

 

[Ian Bissett]

.....a few more.