Robert S.
GT40s Supporter
SPF #2285 Born, But Still Coming To Life
- Thread starter soulcoaxer
- Start date
Mike
Lifetime Supporter
Wow, I am so glad I do not live in Kalifornia, that sounds like a nightmare. When will people wake up and realize that big brother is not the answer?
Anyway, what did you figure out on the fuel tanks? I have encountered a similar situation on mine and actually ran it out of gas twice now. The gauge is almost useless. When I fill up I have both caps off and go very slowly filling from one side or the other but not both.
I have also heard on occasion some clanking from the rear and the best I can tell it is the emergency brakes. Setting a releasing the brake again seems to make it stop. I can't see anything mechanically wrong and have concluded the pads are clicking on the rotor grooves.
I did laugh a little when I read about the unnecessary problems. I am certain that is what I was speaking of in another thread that you seemed to find objectionable. These are great cars but suffer from what as you described, unnecessary problems.
How did you get past the racing tires with the DMV?
What if any plans do you have for making sure the brake/clutch reservoirs are sealed and don't leaked fluid all over the chassis? Looking for to seeing it finished. It is going to look great I'm sure.
Anyway, what did you figure out on the fuel tanks? I have encountered a similar situation on mine and actually ran it out of gas twice now. The gauge is almost useless. When I fill up I have both caps off and go very slowly filling from one side or the other but not both.
I have also heard on occasion some clanking from the rear and the best I can tell it is the emergency brakes. Setting a releasing the brake again seems to make it stop. I can't see anything mechanically wrong and have concluded the pads are clicking on the rotor grooves.
I did laugh a little when I read about the unnecessary problems. I am certain that is what I was speaking of in another thread that you seemed to find objectionable. These are great cars but suffer from what as you described, unnecessary problems.
How did you get past the racing tires with the DMV?
What if any plans do you have for making sure the brake/clutch reservoirs are sealed and don't leaked fluid all over the chassis? Looking for to seeing it finished. It is going to look great I'm sure.
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Is that a Kirkham Motorsports Cobra in the background? Just curious.
It took us months to get 1149 sorted out from first startup. Mind you, a "kit" comes with all the pieces ANd some instructions. We had neither. I have to say that the period of frustration between the first startup and the first real drive with the car sorted out may very well make the entire thing more worth it in the end. I am hoping to spend some quality time with my GT40 this spring. The instruments still aren't accurate, but as long as the engine doesn't run hot, the oil pressure is good, and the battery is charging, I could care less.
Fuel fill problems: sounds like you might have some kind of obstruction in the fill pipes, or the tanks aren't properly vented. They should fill easily. I have seen their tanks and they ought to fill without a problem. I don't think the tanks are the issue; I think air can't get out. What are they using for tank vents?
It took us months to get 1149 sorted out from first startup. Mind you, a "kit" comes with all the pieces ANd some instructions. We had neither. I have to say that the period of frustration between the first startup and the first real drive with the car sorted out may very well make the entire thing more worth it in the end. I am hoping to spend some quality time with my GT40 this spring. The instruments still aren't accurate, but as long as the engine doesn't run hot, the oil pressure is good, and the battery is charging, I could care less.
Fuel fill problems: sounds like you might have some kind of obstruction in the fill pipes, or the tanks aren't properly vented. They should fill easily. I have seen their tanks and they ought to fill without a problem. I don't think the tanks are the issue; I think air can't get out. What are they using for tank vents?
Dave Hood
Lifetime Supporter
Mike:
After driving my car for almost three years now, I've found my fuel gauges to be pretty accurate. When I fill the tanks I take both caps off but only fill from the passenger side. I've also found a few gas stations locally where the pavement near the pumps slopes to the left. That helps the fuel transfer to the left tank, so I always try and use those stations whenever possible.
Dave
After driving my car for almost three years now, I've found my fuel gauges to be pretty accurate. When I fill the tanks I take both caps off but only fill from the passenger side. I've also found a few gas stations locally where the pavement near the pumps slopes to the left. That helps the fuel transfer to the left tank, so I always try and use those stations whenever possible.
Dave
Mike
Lifetime Supporter
Good information thanks. Several times I would run mine down to 1/4 tank and then when I would fill it I would get maybe 10gal in it. Late last year in two occasions I thought at a 1/4 I still had some miles to go. I found out I didn't on the side of the road lol. I have started to drive it based on the odometer instead.
Robert S.
GT40s Supporter
SPF p2285 Updates
RE: Gas tanks. There were two distinct but different problems on my car. Others may experience different problems. 1. Can't fill tank(s) very much, and what small amount you are able to fill, the process is very slow.
The vent hoses connect to the tanks via nipples that extend from them. The rubber hoses fit onto those nipples. When the hoses are not cut to proper length (Too long), then instead of cutting them shorter, they run the hose around the tank to reach the nipple instead of taking the shortest direct path. However, in so doing, once the hose is wrapped around the tank and reaches the nipple it is then too short, and the workers kink the hose severely when the bend it to install it onto the nipple Thus, the vent hose provides no venting. The kinks can be caused at the top or bottom of the hose, or both. 2. Tank fails to feed other tank, or feeds it too slowly. It's a variation of number one above.
RE: Metal clanging sound from left rear wheel area.
Dennis said you have driven some milage now since he built your car, but you need to remove the caliper, and clean and inspect the small separate E.B. drum.
On my car, the problem will likely be that the aluminum spacers that space and hold the EB pads are out of position. There may also be burrs on them that catch, and drag them out of position even more.
RE: DMV Tire approval.
We desired to know as well, but we were too fearful to inquire. Our best guess is that the tire issue is handled by the C.H.P., and they already blessed the tires earlier in the registration process.
RE: Brake and clutch reservoirs.
All related components will be replaced once the basic install package is completed.
Robert
RE: Gas tanks. There were two distinct but different problems on my car. Others may experience different problems. 1. Can't fill tank(s) very much, and what small amount you are able to fill, the process is very slow.
The vent hoses connect to the tanks via nipples that extend from them. The rubber hoses fit onto those nipples. When the hoses are not cut to proper length (Too long), then instead of cutting them shorter, they run the hose around the tank to reach the nipple instead of taking the shortest direct path. However, in so doing, once the hose is wrapped around the tank and reaches the nipple it is then too short, and the workers kink the hose severely when the bend it to install it onto the nipple Thus, the vent hose provides no venting. The kinks can be caused at the top or bottom of the hose, or both. 2. Tank fails to feed other tank, or feeds it too slowly. It's a variation of number one above.
RE: Metal clanging sound from left rear wheel area.
Dennis said you have driven some milage now since he built your car, but you need to remove the caliper, and clean and inspect the small separate E.B. drum.
On my car, the problem will likely be that the aluminum spacers that space and hold the EB pads are out of position. There may also be burrs on them that catch, and drag them out of position even more.
RE: DMV Tire approval.
We desired to know as well, but we were too fearful to inquire. Our best guess is that the tire issue is handled by the C.H.P., and they already blessed the tires earlier in the registration process.
RE: Brake and clutch reservoirs.
All related components will be replaced once the basic install package is completed.
Robert
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Robert S.
GT40s Supporter
SPF Gauges
Not long ago I posed the newbie question of why none of the gauges have warning lights. They laughed at me.
On my first drive, I noticed the water temp was higher than normal. Of course I wasn't quite sure since in is in "C". So, I turned on the fans using the manual toggle. The red light came on, and I thought all was well. Not.
Luckily for me and for my engine, and for SPF, I checked it again within a couple of minutes, and it was way too hot, but the red fan light was still on. I pulled over immediately, called a friend, and we noted the fan fuse was blown.
So, a warning light for both oil and water temp can save you an engine, and at the very least, the red fan light should not be powered directly from the batt., but should be connected from the fan motor. Thereby, if the fan motor fuse blows, then the red light will go out.
My two cents.
Not long ago I posed the newbie question of why none of the gauges have warning lights. They laughed at me.
On my first drive, I noticed the water temp was higher than normal. Of course I wasn't quite sure since in is in "C". So, I turned on the fans using the manual toggle. The red light came on, and I thought all was well. Not.
Luckily for me and for my engine, and for SPF, I checked it again within a couple of minutes, and it was way too hot, but the red fan light was still on. I pulled over immediately, called a friend, and we noted the fan fuse was blown.
So, a warning light for both oil and water temp can save you an engine, and at the very least, the red fan light should not be powered directly from the batt., but should be connected from the fan motor. Thereby, if the fan motor fuse blows, then the red light will go out.
My two cents.
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
The vents on mine are different Robert, the only problem I incurred was the gas cap sealed the tanks so when under way your efi return filled one tank while draining the other then pressurized the tank as fuel heated up during circulation. The solution was either make and install a charcoal canister with a vacuum line connected to the intake or just take off the rubber gaskets on the gas caps. Guess which one I did. 
On a hot day in the garage you can smell gas a little but I've gotten use to it.
On a hot day in the garage you can smell gas a little but I've gotten use to it.
Robert S.
GT40s Supporter
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
Re: SPF Gauges
Robert I use my computer to control the fans it uses block temp rather than radiator temp to control them.
I'm not laughing I like idiot lights, we all get distracted when driving and a bright red light will wake you up.
Robert I use my computer to control the fans it uses block temp rather than radiator temp to control them.
Robert S.
GT40s Supporter
Re: SPF Gauges
Thanks to all for your input.
I've reviewed it all again. It is confusing in some way, even what I wrote.
I thought we would consider this topic again.
I am currently thinking that my SPF fans are controlled by a thermostat located up by the fans, rather than at the block. It comes on and off as the sensor dictates. I have a bypass toggle that allows me to bypass the automatic system, and turn on the fans manually. However, because there is no warning device, whether the sensor tells the fans to come on, or I turn them on manually, if the fuse for the fans is blown, the fans will not come on.
In any event, it does not matter whether a computer, a thermostat or a bypass switch is used to activate the fans, if the fan fuse is blown, you will not know your engine is overheating until you glance at the gauge or bad things begin to happen.
Likewise, if you have a warning light, then no matter how the fans are triggered, if the fuse is blown, you will learn that, and you will likely learn sooner than depending on glancing at all your gauges.
Are there any disagreements with what is presented here?
:thumbsup:
Thanks to all for your input.
I've reviewed it all again. It is confusing in some way, even what I wrote.
I thought we would consider this topic again.
I am currently thinking that my SPF fans are controlled by a thermostat located up by the fans, rather than at the block. It comes on and off as the sensor dictates. I have a bypass toggle that allows me to bypass the automatic system, and turn on the fans manually. However, because there is no warning device, whether the sensor tells the fans to come on, or I turn them on manually, if the fuse for the fans is blown, the fans will not come on.
In any event, it does not matter whether a computer, a thermostat or a bypass switch is used to activate the fans, if the fan fuse is blown, you will not know your engine is overheating until you glance at the gauge or bad things begin to happen.
Likewise, if you have a warning light, then no matter how the fans are triggered, if the fuse is blown, you will learn that, and you will likely learn sooner than depending on glancing at all your gauges.
Are there any disagreements with what is presented here?
:thumbsup:
I had an over heating issue last year. I noticed by touching the water lines that the water wasn't flowing. So, I replaced the water pump and thermostat and it was still over heating... even with the fans on.
What I discovered was that I had a big air pocket in the water pump and it wasn't pulling water through. So I pre-primed the water pump and all the water lines and buttoned it back up. Magically, the water started flowing again and I never had an over heating since.
What I discovered was that I had a big air pocket in the water pump and it wasn't pulling water through. So I pre-primed the water pump and all the water lines and buttoned it back up. Magically, the water started flowing again and I never had an over heating since.
Robert S.
GT40s Supporter
Robert,
Very nice guages. I wish the GPS and Tach units were available back when I got mine. Would have solved a lot of headaches and extra equipment.
Bill
Very nice guages. I wish the GPS and Tach units were available back when I got mine. Would have solved a lot of headaches and extra equipment.
Bill
Robert S.
GT40s Supporter
Gauges, Mirrors and Canards
Hey Bill, thanks. Remember, it was seeing the photos you posted of your gauges on an old post that definitely inspired me. Well, that in addition to realizing the uselessness of the original gauges.
I'm seldom impressed with products, but this line of gauges, and the personal way they conduct business was like being back in the 60s - and for those who may not know, that's a big compliment.
Besides the GPS, just beneath the speedo is a screen operated by miniature computer inside the gauge. It displays instant and average gas mileage, and other useful info just like the real cars do . . . :laugh2:
It was great to rid the car of the two mechanical gauges (Oil and water temp) and use the electric sensors in their place. Each of those gauges feature very easily programmable warning lights for BOTH low and high conditions. Obviously the gas level only sports the low warning. The kit included a nice and useable small dimmer switch too. The speedo also sports a tiny high beam light, and two small turn signal indicators, but for now, I’ll use the factory ones. As you know, the original five gauges were 2 1/16” inches, these are 2 5/8” but fit existing cutouts with trick adapter provided with the set. Can you tell? I just can’t say enough about them.
I also took time to install four additional led dash lights beneath the three exterior light toggles, but they were not viewable in the photo because of dash angle.
Thanks Bill, Robert
Hey Bill, thanks. Remember, it was seeing the photos you posted of your gauges on an old post that definitely inspired me. Well, that in addition to realizing the uselessness of the original gauges.
I'm seldom impressed with products, but this line of gauges, and the personal way they conduct business was like being back in the 60s - and for those who may not know, that's a big compliment.
Besides the GPS, just beneath the speedo is a screen operated by miniature computer inside the gauge. It displays instant and average gas mileage, and other useful info just like the real cars do . . . :laugh2:
It was great to rid the car of the two mechanical gauges (Oil and water temp) and use the electric sensors in their place. Each of those gauges feature very easily programmable warning lights for BOTH low and high conditions. Obviously the gas level only sports the low warning. The kit included a nice and useable small dimmer switch too. The speedo also sports a tiny high beam light, and two small turn signal indicators, but for now, I’ll use the factory ones. As you know, the original five gauges were 2 1/16” inches, these are 2 5/8” but fit existing cutouts with trick adapter provided with the set. Can you tell? I just can’t say enough about them.
I also took time to install four additional led dash lights beneath the three exterior light toggles, but they were not viewable in the photo because of dash angle.
Thanks Bill, Robert
Robert S.
GT40s Supporter
260 mpg speedo
Thanks Jimmy. I know that some may consider the 260 mph an ego type circumstance, or perhaps otherwise. However, in the early days after I made the roller purchase, I thought I wanted a six speed ZF. Once I found the very handy web link to a special calculator page with graphs, I learned there was truly no room for, within the range of gears, nor actual need for a six speed, and I was thankful I used that page. In addition, the page tells you from the simple info you enter about your car: redline, tire diameter, and rear end ratio, it will immediately tell you not only your top speed capability (My top speed calculated 236 MPH), but it will tell you what RPM you will be shifting at through all your gears, and that info was used to design my solid roller cam. Anyway, they offered 200, 220 and 260. So, that's the story on that.
As far as the canard goes, you are correct about Dennis. I did work on it for several hours for several reasons once I received it and before installing it. I pondered the color, since I already have the touch-up paint for my ride, but for now decided to brush the aluminum, and clear coat it.
The canards attach at three points: near front, middle, and near to rear. I believe it was either 6 mm or 8 mm stainless steel screws, with nuts and washers that were provided with.
It is easier to install once you take both front wheels off, remove access panels that lead to the inside of the box surrounding the headlights and other lights. However, we were able to turn the wheels out on the waist high lift point, and reach the panel and remove the fasteners thereby, without removal of wheels.
Soon, I will remember to photograph beneath the spoiler for you, and that will likely be when we install the totally bitchen/awesome brace I have for the canards that did not come from Dennis.
Thanks, Robert
Thanks Jimmy. I know that some may consider the 260 mph an ego type circumstance, or perhaps otherwise. However, in the early days after I made the roller purchase, I thought I wanted a six speed ZF. Once I found the very handy web link to a special calculator page with graphs, I learned there was truly no room for, within the range of gears, nor actual need for a six speed, and I was thankful I used that page. In addition, the page tells you from the simple info you enter about your car: redline, tire diameter, and rear end ratio, it will immediately tell you not only your top speed capability (My top speed calculated 236 MPH), but it will tell you what RPM you will be shifting at through all your gears, and that info was used to design my solid roller cam. Anyway, they offered 200, 220 and 260. So, that's the story on that.
As far as the canard goes, you are correct about Dennis. I did work on it for several hours for several reasons once I received it and before installing it. I pondered the color, since I already have the touch-up paint for my ride, but for now decided to brush the aluminum, and clear coat it.
The canards attach at three points: near front, middle, and near to rear. I believe it was either 6 mm or 8 mm stainless steel screws, with nuts and washers that were provided with.
It is easier to install once you take both front wheels off, remove access panels that lead to the inside of the box surrounding the headlights and other lights. However, we were able to turn the wheels out on the waist high lift point, and reach the panel and remove the fasteners thereby, without removal of wheels.
Soon, I will remember to photograph beneath the spoiler for you, and that will likely be when we install the totally bitchen/awesome brace I have for the canards that did not come from Dennis.
Thanks, Robert
Robert S.
GT40s Supporter
