The BOSS is in the house...

[Randy V]

We just received our first BOSS 302 Block to be the basis for a stroker build that will be installed in a Cobra replica.

I thought I would share some pics with you fellas..

Note - I obliterated the Serial Number on the images, but it is stamped into the block and it's also called out on the paperwork.

BOSS 302 Block pictures by CHCA-RV - Photobucket

A lot of interesting machine work on this block. I have to say that it's the stoutest block I've ever seen out of Ford since the cross-bolt FE.

I'll post more pictures later as we build it and dyno test.

Enjoy!

 

[Howard Beck]

Randy,

I see you are as happy with your Boss 302 as I am with mine.

Happy New Year,
Howard

 

[EGLITOM]

And hopefully i´m with mine

Happy new year
TOM

 

[Eric Johnson]

Looking good Randy. You're right it does look mighty stout for sure.

 

[Doug S.]

Very much like the original "Boss 302" block....screw in "freeze plugs", that sort of thing. I like the splayed 4-bolt mains on 2, 3 & 4!

I don't suppose we'd be lucky enough that you'd be building a reall "Boss" motor with this block, complete with canted valve heads, would we?

Cheers, Randy, from Doug!

 

[Roger]

Just be aware that there are two versions of this block. The early version has no webbing to tie the rear main into the block. We failed two of these blocks in this area at appoximately 2000 miles when producing just over 600hp. There is nothing you can do once they fail as the crack goes straight accross the oil gallery. The first thing that you will notice is your flywheel is covered in oil.
I'm sure the early ones would be ok for use in lower HP applications.

 

[Randy V]

This block is going into a customer's Cobra Replica as a 347 Stroker.

I don't suppose we'd be lucky enough that you'd be building a reall "Boss" motor with this block, complete with canted valve heads, would we?

Sorry Doug - no... The heads will be a standard Windsor configuration head. I believe they will be Dart Pro-1 heads that we will re-work.

Just be aware that there are two versions of this block. The early version has no webbing to tie the rear main into the block. We failed two of these blocks in this area at appoximately 2000 miles when producing just over 600hp. There is nothing you can do once they fail as the crack goes straight accross the oil gallery. The first thing that you will notice is your flywheel is covered in oil.
I'm sure the early ones would be ok for use in lower HP applications.

Interesting information Roger. Do you have any part numbers and/or pictures of this webbing that you're speaking of?
One of the reasons we went with this block is to get the strength through the main webbing and a much thicker deck as well as priority oiling..

 

[Mike Pass]

That's a really nice chunky looking block. Any chance you could drop it on the scales to see what it weighs?
Thanks
Mike

 

[JimmyMac]

A bare block weighs approximately 165 lbs.

 

[Chris Coote]

Check the "thumb print" in the heads you are using against the water passages in the block.Refer to image 17 as these small water passages about 3/16" near the outer lower bolt holes may have to be blanked off.4 off.
I used Edelbrock heads on my Boss block and found these water passages come under the thumb print in the heads and leaked coolant as soon as we filled block.Remove heads,drill and tap and blank off.

 

[Mike Huddart]

That's a really nice chunky looking block. Any chance you could drop it on the scales to see what it weighs?
Thanks

Mike

Ford list two weights for the Boss block, last year they listed it at 175 lbs and in the 2011 catalogue they list it at 163 lbs.
It will vary by about 10 lbs anyway according to whether you have the 4.00 bore version or the 4.125.

The warehouse we deal with has it at 175 lbs without any packaging, I think they are probably right.

I DO know they are quite a bit heavier than a Chev, which are 160 lbs, as my knees tend to buckle that bit more when I'm lifting one onto the Sunnen !

Mike

 

[Randy V]

That's a really nice chunky looking block. Any chance you could drop it on the scales to see what it weighs?
Thanks
Mike

I'll scale it next weekend when I'm working at the shop.. Don't know why I didn't think of doing that in the first place... I do know that this block is right at the edge of my comfort level in terms of lifting it by myself..

Check the "thumb print" in the heads you are using against the water passages in the block.Refer to image 17 as these small water passages about 3/16" near the outer lower bolt holes may have to be blanked off.4 off.
I used Edelbrock heads on my Boss block and found these water passages come under the thumb print in the heads and leaked coolant as soon as we filled block.Remove heads,drill and tap and blank off.

If you're talking about these holes in the picture below - They're not drilled all the way through the deck - but good information to have;

Picture of the back of the block I took yesterday;

 

[Roger]

That is the later version of the block.
The early version doesn't have the webs that tie the cam tunnel down to the rear main or the other two longer webs that run down to the rear main.
You should have no problems with that one. Hopefully they found a new job position for the engineer that designed version 1.

 

[Randy V]

Thanks for the confirmation Roger!
:thumbsup:

 

[Pat Buckley]

That sure is beautiful!

Art.

 

[Julian]

Ahh, bugger. Just checked a photo of the back of my Boss block and found out it does not have the later version stiffening ribs. Oh well, can't do much about it now! Hopefully 7000 rpm and 380 ish RWHP are not going to give it too much grief over time.

And yeah, when the engine builders first put mine on the engine dyno a couple of years ago it poured water out of the head gasket and I have Edelbrock Victor Jr heads. From memory a gasket change to Cleveland fixed it...but my memory is dodgy and it wasn't me doing the work.

 

[Randy V]

I don't think I'd lose any sleep over it Julian...

The block is still easily 2x stronger than a 5.0l 302 block..