What are the best tools for cutting aluminium panels?

[Geoff Deakin]

I'm about to start making up some chassis panels for my KVA.

I've done a search, having been sure I've read various ideas, but can't find anything.

What tools and methods does everybody suggest?

Cheers,

Geoff.

 

[Ron Earp]

As I'm doing this more or less every weekend to make something I might can help here.

*Electric jigsaw and glue felt on the pad/foot to prevent gouging. Good ones around $60.

*Air reciprocating saw but doesn't do corners well. Around $25 budget tool which works well.

*Air shears but really only for straight cuts mainly. Around $25 budget, sames as above.

*Air or hand Nibbler, great for small detail work. I use a hand nibbler.

*Deburring tool, hand held, great for cleaning up edges from drilling and cutting.

*Clecos - used to hold the panel in place for fitment, $20 for a set.

For $150 you should be able to have capacity to do anything you need.

Start with heavy construction paper and make a template that fits perfectly. Then move on to ally panel. Measure a lot, cut once. Make sure you plan your folds ahead of time because you'll find sometimes if you make fold A first you can't make folds B,C, and D.

 

[Jack]

My 2 cents:
Electric jig saw always works well and is my most used tool for cutting aluminum panels. Pad the foot. I always tape the aluminum too. Usually, I deburr with a file.

Pay close attention to what Ron mentioned about templates and folds!

 

[Robin Little]

I use air shears for most of the straight cuts. I then usually use a set of right or left handed shears to do any corners. Difficult to find a good set as I have bought around four sets and nothing even comes close to my original 30 year old set.

I apply some paper application tape ( basically a wide masking tape used for applying vinyl signwriting material) on top of the full sheet of aluminum before starting any work. This will also allow you to pencil on the cut line. Available from link below MDP Supplies | Sign Vinyl - Paper Application Tape

So far I have found this the best way for me.

I also use an old Hutton fly/ball press with a square punch to cut out any internal corners.

Hope this helps

 

[Doc Kaler]

+1 on the Jigsaw use!

 

[Pat Buckley]

For about $400 you can buy a 3 or 4 foot (can't recall) combination brake, slip roll, and shear at Harbour Freight - after it is cleaned up and adjusted it will be used a LOT.

For longer cuts I have a nearby friend.

Edit: Just noticed you are in England - I'm sure there are comparable places to Harbour Freight.....

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=Garage+&+Shop&q=brake

Edit: Noticed that prices have gone up a bit since I bought mine in 2003. Whatever, you use it and then sell it and the net cost is not that bad!

 

[David Morton]

Wiss.- all three - Left, straight and right - and only Wiss.

 

[Jack]

I do use Wiss shears for all thin aluminum. More than 2mm, the electric jig saw is your friend.

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Jig saw or fine-tooth Sawzall. The use of WD-40 or other lubricant will keep the blade from loading up during the cut and increase speed considerably.

 

[Bill Musarra]

I agree with all said above. When you go to template stage, Tape the template in place and then make sure the measurements are what you want. You may have to add a fraction with bends as the aluminum will be thicker than the template. It matters most on outside corners. Also when you tape the template up in place, any thing that is amiss you should write down on the template. What your thoughts are about drill holes, overlaps, brackets, bend lines etc.. You won't be able to remember them when it comes time to cut.

Use a felt tip pen to write on the aluminum also. It comes off easily with Goof Off or similar unles it is on when you do any welding, brazing etc.

Bill

 

[Howard Jones]

I have been using a sawzall with a very fine blade, 24 teeth per inch. I have been able to make very good straight cuts with it. I also use a 14" sanding disk a lot to true up edges and round corners. Most of my material thickness has been .06 -.125. I agree with masking the working surface so the saw doesn't mar up the surface. The 2 inch blue painters tape works well for me.

Round corners are a little more difficult but I cut them out and leave a little extra then use the sander to fine tune the edge of the curve.

I think I will be buying a jig saw and give it a try.

I have some cheap shears. Cheap shears are worthless.

 

[Randy]

Terry's correct!. Aluminum loves to gall , so a little WD-40 goes a long way to keep blades on saws and shears happy. I have a big band saw with 14 teeth per inch(24 is good for steel).That and a Milwaukee electric shear, left and right hand snips, dont forget the Beverly shear. This message is Blastolene approved!
Randy

 

[Bob Putnam]

For those who cut miles (literally) of steel and aluminum, like I did before having almost everything laser-cut:

Bosch 1500C 16 Gauge Unishear Shear

Minimal burrs, and with a little practice, easy to stay within .5mm of the line.

 

[Geoff Deakin]

Thanks to all for your ideas.

I'm now off to spend some of my hard earned!!!!

Cheers,

Geoff.