The car built 'round the world. It really looks great.
1149 Mono Replica
- Thread starter jimbo
- Start date
Excellent news Jim! It's been a long road, but it sure was worth it. It really came out beautifully. Happy Holidays !
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Two to three inches of snow on the ground here, collisions all over....a perfect day to drive up and visit my car. Ron is slowly getting the Smiths gauges sorted out- a new sender ordered for the water temp, which never worked out of the box, I think, the wiring sorted out for the speedo, Ron working on the tachometer as I left, and speaking of leaving, I left him with a couple of books on Webers- Braden and Tomlinson. The new front tires look fantastic and won't rub. The duct in the rear clip that was rubbing the left fire is fixed, the clutch is straightened out and feels fine, and we made some progress on the routing question on the handbrake cables. Overall things moving along nicely. The next group of bits from John Shriver will be coming along presently, with the cover for the shift linkage to be done first and then several other odds and ends which need doing.
I was going to ask if anyone knew where the handbrake cables were routed in the original cars- then I remembered there aren't any. The "handbrake" just applied the service brakes and held them. This setup will be nonoriginal, but a hell of a lot safer. Similar in ways to the SPF cars (we are looking at John's car for ideas etc) but in the SPF cars, they have a brake inside the disc brake, like Mercedes Benz used to do it. Because my brakes were not made with that in mind, we are adding mechanical calipers which will be on the fronts of the rear hub carriers. Not clear whether or not there will be room for a torque multiplier and where to put it if there is.
I was going to ask if anyone knew where the handbrake cables were routed in the original cars- then I remembered there aren't any. The "handbrake" just applied the service brakes and held them. This setup will be nonoriginal, but a hell of a lot safer. Similar in ways to the SPF cars (we are looking at John's car for ideas etc) but in the SPF cars, they have a brake inside the disc brake, like Mercedes Benz used to do it. Because my brakes were not made with that in mind, we are adding mechanical calipers which will be on the fronts of the rear hub carriers. Not clear whether or not there will be room for a torque multiplier and where to put it if there is.
Let us know how you get on as I will most likey have to do the same!
John
John
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Sure, John. We have the handbrake calipers courtesy of Ipsco in Colorado; the real question is how to connect them to the original style handbrake lever which is transversely located under the dashboard like the old cars had it. I think the cables are going to run along the top of the tunnel, and on top of them will be a center console of some kind that the trimmers will make up. that ought to work. If the handbrake needs a torque multiplier lever to make it squeeze hard enough, then we have to find someplace to put it where the cables can be attached and where it can both swing and have a fulcrum to bear against. Once we get this figured out, I will post photos of it all.
Do your rear hub carriers have a provision for a handbrake caliper? mine are being mounted on the front of each carrier, as the service brake caliper is to the rear of the upright/carrier assembly.
Do your rear hub carriers have a provision for a handbrake caliper? mine are being mounted on the front of each carrier, as the service brake caliper is to the rear of the upright/carrier assembly.
Hi Jim, I think the under mount dash lever will have enough pull, am planning on using a single cable from lever to a 1 into 2 adapter then a single cable to each, The MK3 had a mechanical hand brake if anybody has photos would be great, yes the uprights have been drilled and taped expecting to fit both mechanical and hydraulic callipers,
John
John
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JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Here are some shots of one of the hand brake calipers taken when P1008 was re-shelled.
I think it is an AP unit.
This car has the same Ford Anglia handbrake lever which you are using.
The later lever shown in the parts manual can be seen in the other picture attached. This is the one linked to the brake pedal.
I think it is an AP unit.
This car has the same Ford Anglia handbrake lever which you are using.
The later lever shown in the parts manual can be seen in the other picture attached. This is the one linked to the brake pedal.
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Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Interesting and thanks to all... the service brake caliper on 1008 is about the size of the e-brake caliper from Ipsco. The Ipsco e-brake caliper is quite robust. I'll post some photos of it.
I like the Anglia lever- I didn't know that's where it came from. With some luck we can come up with routing that we can hide under the center console and make it work well so that the car is safer thereby.
Update on car: the tachometer seems to be bad, right out of the box. It is going back to Smiths in MN next week to get looked at and I hope rebuilt so it will work; all the tachometer wiring is as specified, and it ought to work with the MSD 6AL box. Can't do much for the Webers without a tachometer, now can we?
I have another pump from Andrew, plus one I got on eBay, plus another I may have found. This may make enough to reinstall the SW pump rig and see if it will do the job and not give us trouble. New front tires are on, and look a LOT different than the 225/60-15s- lots more room for everything to move around. Car just keeps getting lower and lower. Clutch is adjusted. New water temp sender on the way- again, seems to have been bad out of the box, which I find hard to understand. Interestingly, the voltage stabilizer, which I EXPECTED to give us all the trouble, has not done so. Maybe Smiths sold so many gauges because they worked.
John Shand, what kind of brake calipers do you have on your car? They look good. I am going to paint over the WW name for the moment, until I can find some that look like the Gulf brakes- the four-piston ones that are on the later race cars. I hope, anyway. Two other changes I'd like to make: metal brake and clutch lines for the area on the front of the tub, and GT40 uprights that are unique to each side similar to the originals. I don't know that my stub axles and all the bearings, seals, etc, will go in the handed uprights. All that is for later on, anyway.
I have also found out that I can get temporary road insurance coverage again for a short time for testing, but the weather up here and the amount of things to do to get the car all sorted out preclude trying it in the near future. Now if we get a dry spell that isn't too cold, we might try it.
Not too much metal work remains: the mount for the overflow bottle, fabricating aluminum sheet metal splash shields for the front subframe, and installing the one on the back of the car. A cover for the tops of the Webers. And installing those little flags on the six exterior Dzus fasteners that will make them look like they are supposed to....
We will not have the car in the trim shop in December, but January is a distinct possibility. (this also rests on Ron getting a new race car trailer, to replace the old open one he recently sold). The aim is to have the car sorted out as well as possible- running well, driving well, no leaks, everything functioning as best it can, before tying the car up in the trim shop.
Although, as the time wears on, I am more and more in favor of a simple interior without a lot of extra stuff there- just decent seats, and cover as much of the metalwork as it needed. Back in the day, many street GT40s had astonishingly fancy interiors. Not now- just the basics.
I like the Anglia lever- I didn't know that's where it came from. With some luck we can come up with routing that we can hide under the center console and make it work well so that the car is safer thereby.
Update on car: the tachometer seems to be bad, right out of the box. It is going back to Smiths in MN next week to get looked at and I hope rebuilt so it will work; all the tachometer wiring is as specified, and it ought to work with the MSD 6AL box. Can't do much for the Webers without a tachometer, now can we?
I have another pump from Andrew, plus one I got on eBay, plus another I may have found. This may make enough to reinstall the SW pump rig and see if it will do the job and not give us trouble. New front tires are on, and look a LOT different than the 225/60-15s- lots more room for everything to move around. Car just keeps getting lower and lower. Clutch is adjusted. New water temp sender on the way- again, seems to have been bad out of the box, which I find hard to understand. Interestingly, the voltage stabilizer, which I EXPECTED to give us all the trouble, has not done so. Maybe Smiths sold so many gauges because they worked.
John Shand, what kind of brake calipers do you have on your car? They look good. I am going to paint over the WW name for the moment, until I can find some that look like the Gulf brakes- the four-piston ones that are on the later race cars. I hope, anyway. Two other changes I'd like to make: metal brake and clutch lines for the area on the front of the tub, and GT40 uprights that are unique to each side similar to the originals. I don't know that my stub axles and all the bearings, seals, etc, will go in the handed uprights. All that is for later on, anyway.
I have also found out that I can get temporary road insurance coverage again for a short time for testing, but the weather up here and the amount of things to do to get the car all sorted out preclude trying it in the near future. Now if we get a dry spell that isn't too cold, we might try it.
Not too much metal work remains: the mount for the overflow bottle, fabricating aluminum sheet metal splash shields for the front subframe, and installing the one on the back of the car. A cover for the tops of the Webers. And installing those little flags on the six exterior Dzus fasteners that will make them look like they are supposed to....
We will not have the car in the trim shop in December, but January is a distinct possibility. (this also rests on Ron getting a new race car trailer, to replace the old open one he recently sold). The aim is to have the car sorted out as well as possible- running well, driving well, no leaks, everything functioning as best it can, before tying the car up in the trim shop.
Although, as the time wears on, I am more and more in favor of a simple interior without a lot of extra stuff there- just decent seats, and cover as much of the metalwork as it needed. Back in the day, many street GT40s had astonishingly fancy interiors. Not now- just the basics.
Hi Jim
callipers are WW the cheaper option at this stage, I have machined the uprights to take the correct Girling 4 pot units should I ever get my hands on a set
original uprights are not handed, same for both sides, some dont have the holes drilled and some have had the tabs cut off.
if you change your uprights and want to use your existing callipers you will have to get a adapter made as the Girling 4 pots have different offset and radial mounting (front to rear)
it took me a while to get a setup that would allow me to use original type uprights, once all sorted and on road I will mill off the WW
callipers are WW the cheaper option at this stage, I have machined the uprights to take the correct Girling 4 pot units should I ever get my hands on a set
original uprights are not handed, same for both sides, some dont have the holes drilled and some have had the tabs cut off.
if you change your uprights and want to use your existing callipers you will have to get a adapter made as the Girling 4 pots have different offset and radial mounting (front to rear)
it took me a while to get a setup that would allow me to use original type uprights, once all sorted and on road I will mill off the WW
This handbrake caliper is a wilwood unit , kind of artificial aged to look correct(or wilwood copied that design exactly). I have the same on my RCR, althought the mounting bracket of RCR is like it should be ( it is a free floating claiper, thus the bracket should allow to do so, which is apperently not the case on P1008.
Here is the link to wilwood
http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperList.aspx?subname=Mech Spot
TOM
I checxked back on the 1966 Road car thread(1063) and all the hand brake lever photos have disapeared. Probably because I loaded them all on Photobucket.If you want more pics(differnt ones) than these you can find them here:
66 Road Car pictures by Billmusarra - Photobucket
Here are the ones that I rebuilt for the owner. He had all the parts but had no idea how they went together(I just got lucky). The housing holds the two pieces that work the ratchet mechanism. Somehow I figured out how to get them in there along with the spring and rod(pic #2 & 4). Sorry about the photo, was working with a really old camera at the time.
be sure you have some long hemostats when you go to hook them up. There is no way I could get my fingers, much less hand in there to do the hook up.
Bill
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Bill, this s really interesting- one of the things I love about this forum. I will post photos of what we do on 1149. It seems to me that there are a few ways to go about the handbrake business: either make something that just applies the hydraulic service brakes, which is original but not very safe, try to copy the original separate e-brake caliper system, which is a bit safer AND original, OR devise a really functional mechanical e-brake system which will really hold the car and possibly function as an emergency brake, at least at modest speeds. This last is what we are trying to do. It won't look original, but it will work the best of the three.
John, the rear uprights on my car are more or less close to original. It's the fronts that don't look the part at all. The Safir uprights are usable either side, they are not handed left or right, and that is what I want to correct later on.
John, the rear uprights on my car are more or less close to original. It's the fronts that don't look the part at all. The Safir uprights are usable either side, they are not handed left or right, and that is what I want to correct later on.
Hi Jim
sorry I missed that, was thinking rear, yes the fronts are indeed handed, we can help if required as we have castings when the time comes (we as in Classic car Developments) Dave brown, can post a photo if you like? or email, but dont want to take away from your build site, John
sorry I missed that, was thinking rear, yes the fronts are indeed handed, we can help if required as we have castings when the time comes (we as in Classic car Developments) Dave brown, can post a photo if you like? or email, but dont want to take away from your build site, John
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Email me a photo of your uprights, the ones you made there. This is all for later on, I have to get it all sorted out and running, first. Changes such as that I will make next winter, I think.
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Jimmy Mac, is the under-dash mount sturdy enough to do its job with the Anglia handbrake lever, do you think?
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Jim
If I was fitting the Anglia lever under the dash as standard I would fit a doubler plate to stiffen the edge of the scuttle.
Incidentally the lever on P1008 was retro-fitted in a conventional position leeward of the central tunnel.
John,
The Ford diagram shows your splitter.
If I was fitting the Anglia lever under the dash as standard I would fit a doubler plate to stiffen the edge of the scuttle.
Incidentally the lever on P1008 was retro-fitted in a conventional position leeward of the central tunnel.
John,
The Ford diagram shows your splitter.
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Last edited:
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Good idea, stiffening the scuttle like that. Thanks.
The car's tachometer never worked from new- sent it back to Apt Instruments in MN, where I bought it in 2005- it sat around for five years until the car was ready for it. And didn't work from startup. Even though it is two years out of warranty, they are rebuilding it with up to date internals and a stepper motor movement, which it did not have, so that it will work with the MSD box, and with any luck not give us any more trouble. They are doing this for postage only, which is very decent of them. We also ordered a new water temp sender which hopefully will make that gauge work and eliminate the leak from the old unit, which seems to have been defective from the box as well.
The aluminum rear tray obtained from Jay Cushman was trimmed and fit last night and riveted into place, and looks very good in photos. I have not seen it in person yet, but it fit very well, needing little trimming to work. We have to pattern and make the undertrays for the front, which are all of flat stock, which should not be too difficult. And Ron found a set of replacement tires for the back which more or less match the BFGs I bought for the front, so I will have five Radial TAs for sale, with at most five or six miles on them. Someone is going to get a good deal of five tires; they'll even have a spare!!
The car's tachometer never worked from new- sent it back to Apt Instruments in MN, where I bought it in 2005- it sat around for five years until the car was ready for it. And didn't work from startup. Even though it is two years out of warranty, they are rebuilding it with up to date internals and a stepper motor movement, which it did not have, so that it will work with the MSD box, and with any luck not give us any more trouble. They are doing this for postage only, which is very decent of them. We also ordered a new water temp sender which hopefully will make that gauge work and eliminate the leak from the old unit, which seems to have been defective from the box as well.
The aluminum rear tray obtained from Jay Cushman was trimmed and fit last night and riveted into place, and looks very good in photos. I have not seen it in person yet, but it fit very well, needing little trimming to work. We have to pattern and make the undertrays for the front, which are all of flat stock, which should not be too difficult. And Ron found a set of replacement tires for the back which more or less match the BFGs I bought for the front, so I will have five Radial TAs for sale, with at most five or six miles on them. Someone is going to get a good deal of five tires; they'll even have a spare!!
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
It was John's idea.