1149 Mono Replica

The lever in bills post (pull out) dont use one off them.
I used one in my car and the ratio is 1:1, I spent a long time trying to get it to work and still ended up with the STD style lever as they have a high ratio.

Jim
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
The lever in bills post (pull out) dont use one off them.
I used one in my car and the ratio is 1:1, I spent a long time trying to get it to work and still ended up with the STD style lever as they have a high ratio.
Jim

JimC
Did you use the umbrella handle lever to actuate your mechanical brake calipers or just to lock the compressed brake pedal as it was originally intended ?
 

Jim Rosenthal

Supporter
Got a call from Ron today... the replacement water temp sender is 5/8-18 straight thread... no way to put it into the manifold as there is no adapter available anymore. They are sending him (they being Smiths) a 1/8" NPT sender- a bushing to adapt that is easy to find.

So what kind of engine DOES have a 5/8-18 water temp sender hole? I can't imagine.....

...other good news: Ron found a pair of BFG radials that will more or less match the Gforces which are now on the front, which means I will have a set of 5 Radial TAs to sell to some lucky winner...look for them on CL or our For Sale section..
..he is working on fitting the fiberglass seat backs that I got from Jay, which are more sturdily built than the originals I have seen. Although road cars used bolt fixings, we are going to use steel tabs and Dzus fasteners- they will be more solidly mounted and easier to remove and replace...
...the Smiths tachometer is on its way back to us with new innards, hopefully to work normally so the engine can be tuned..
..the weather here is pretty awful; not GT40 driving weather at all, so time to fettle all these things.

Happy New Year to all, a safe and prosperous one for all of us...
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
I guess in a bind, you could tap the hole to 3/4"-16, and use an -8 AN plug which you would then drill the middle of it to an 1/8" NPT thread?
 
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Jim Rosenthal

Supporter
You could.... I decided just to send that one back and use a smaller temp sender and a steel bushing. Those kind of parts are easy to find and it should be fine in there, plus it will make good contact for the grounding of the sender. The old sender is straight thread so it would need a sealing ring no matter how you mounted it.. the straight threads don't seal themselves with Teflon liquid on them. Better to go with what I know how to fix later on when the car is down here and not up there with Ron, who can fix anything. The replacement process has to be "adapted to the meanest intelligence", which certainly describes me.
 
Most smiths water temp gauges-esp the capillary tube type use the straight thread, but there is an adapter usually furnished with the gauge kit that has a pipe ( tapered) thread to fit the manifold/head/pump from which you wish to take temp reading from. This adapter would have the straight female thread & reqd seat for the sealing washer for the bulb of the capillary tube & nut.
 

Jim Rosenthal

Supporter
You'd think they would send that, wouldn't you... but when I called them, they just said "go to a parts store". Right. The kind of parts store you could walk in with a GT40 catalog and buy anything at the 1966 price... in my dreams, maybe. So I took the path of least resistance and just ordered another one that would be easier to install.

I am going up to see the car and shoot some more photos Thursday, I think. Ron has a lot of the mounting of the fiberglass seat backs done- although road cars used a bolt fixing, it is clear that multiple mounting tabs using Dzus fasteners is much better, so he is doing that. After that is done, I may be able to get the seat backs to the upholstery shop to get the lacing and eyelets put in, or at least order the hardware for same. And I have to get serious about the Pirelli webbing and hooks etc- I've seen all that stuff on the web (no pun intended) but now I have to find it and put the trampoline together. In that respect, this car will be quite similar to original, or so I hope.
 
over 500 eyes/rivets in thoes seats from memory, but they look and feal great, you may want to put a foam pad under the webbing? I found it a bit soft or my seat rails are a bit lower than normal, (for taller drivers) no problem for me I am the correct height for a GT40!
 

Jim Rosenthal

Supporter
Will do. I am the perfect height for a GT40- only 5'8". There are some advantages to being short or average height. Does anyone have a source for the webbing, the hooks, and the rivets/eyes? I will need all that stuff shortly. I have some very good photos from Racing Icons showing how to put it all together, also from my photos of 1072 which appears to have its old webbing, maybe even original. Although Racing Icons evidently supplied an interior for that car many years ago when it was in Atlanta, before its current owners had it. But it looks like it's been in there a while.
 

Jim Rosenthal

Supporter
Ian,
Actually I already have the FRP seat backs, and the squabs for these seats rest on a webbing trampoline made of Pirelli webbing which is sprung directly to the chassis of the car. There is no bolt-in seat usable in a Mark I GT40 chassis, at least not that I have seen. It's an unusual arrangement- the seat back is padded and upholstered, and the seating material is continuous with the squab part of the seat, which just snaps down onto the trampoline. If you look at the drawings of parts in the old GT40 parts catalog, what you are looking at is just a fabric and padding construction that gets its shape from what it rests on, for the lower portion of the seat.

As far as the FRP upper part goes, in road cars they were held to the back bulkhead of the passenger compartment by a bolt, but to make them easier to remove, Ron suggested we use steel tabs and Dzus fasteners, which have worked out very well. (photos later, I saw them today). For the FRP parts, there is a lacing across that part through eyelets which have to be installed- then the upholstered part is installed over that. (this is difficult to describe, photos do much better, I will see what I can find. There are some pretty good photos of some of this on Jay Cushman's web site)

Finally, virtually all GT40 interiors had the ballistic-skirt cloth upholstery with the grommets. I've opted for an upgraded interior which will look like the one in 1043; as I understand it, this was an option in this car from new. The seats do not have the grommets, and they are partly done in leather and partly vinyl. (I had leather made up to match those two materials). We'll see how it all turns out.
 

Jim Rosenthal

Supporter
A few photos from yesterday; the fiberglass parts of the seats are in; they require relieving around the hump in the engine cover. Turns out they are supposed to be painted black- I thought they were left unpainted, I was wrong. I have found one UK site that has most of the webbing material but they don't answer emails; I'll have to call them when the world gets over its hangover, Monday morning or whenever. I need to figure out what rivets to use to hold the trampolines together. New tires on the back, too, courtesy of Ron, and a corrected stance for the car which looks terrific. He is waiting on a replacement water temp sender to be able to start the engine up.

Happy New Year to all! Here's hoping for a prosperous and enjoyable 2011 for all of us, and lots of GT40 miles under all our tires...
 

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Jim Rosenthal

Supporter
Going back up to Hampstead, Sunday; the seat backs are painted and back in the car, Webers synchronized and tuned up a bit, and I am going to work on patterning the aluminum panels for the front of the car. Also figure out how the seat harnesses are going to mount. The webbing is on the way here,but I still have to get the rivets and the double hooks that hold the trampolines to the chassis seat rails. However, it's coming along. A new MSD box got the engine going again, and Ron has got all the gauges sorted out and working. Perhaps a short ride in the next week or so... if we get a spell of clear weather that is not too cold I can get the road coverage put back on the4 car for a few days and get some more seat time and sort a few more things out.

Ron has also figured out where the handbrake cables are going to run, and is working on installing them. The next step is a single cable that will run into the passenger space, along the top of the center tunnel, and then make a sidewise U-turn and attach to the E-brake handle. This ought to get everything working, more or less.

The SW pumps are back in, seem to work fine without leaking, and supply enough fuel for tuning. We'll see how they do when the car is actually moving etc.

Still sorting out tires. Ron found an unused set of Comp TAs for the back, but one doesn't want to hold air. We'll see how that goes. GT40 tire sizes are beyond frustrating; the only company that makes both sizes is Avon, and at $1600 a set, I need to wait a bit before ordering them. That will be for better weather, I think. But things are moving along.
 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Jim

I don't know how wide you want to go on the rear but Kumho tyres do some reasonable widths for 15 inch and they are V rated

I got a set fr the Dax and all 4 cost a whisker under £300

Ian
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Jim,

When the car is sorted and fettled, I would suggest the Avon investment if you intend to drive it much. Everyone I know who has them has been pleased and some of the tread life results I have heard are not too bad so long as you are not on the track all the time. John Shriver has 'em on his Mk I and he has a lot of street time on his Avons.
 

Jim Rosenthal

Supporter
Exactly right... they are supposed to be be best thing out there. Right now, though, I need to spend the money on other things, like getting the upholstery finished, all the things that need final painting, all the sorting out done. John likes his a lot. A set of those will be the final thing I put on the car, after getting all the rest of it done.

I was thinking about mounting the outside and inside mirrors recently- and then I realized that I can't mount the mirrors until I know where I am sitting in the car. And I can't figure out where I am sitting until the upholstery is built and in the car, now can I...so it goes.

Ian, I will look at Kumho tires as well. And thanks for the tip.

There will be a event this spring or summer to celebrate completion of 1149. Cheerful to think about especially since it is snowing today in Annapolis.. watch for a posting apropos of a party for the car. Well, for its owner, with the car attending....
 

Jim Rosenthal

Supporter
Worthwhile day working on the car with Ron... we got the patterns made for the aluminum panels for the front framework- astonishingly, the two sides are nearly the same. Also got the protective insulation applied to the inside of the rear clip. This was far less easy- the stuff wanted to move around and spread out and not behave itself. However, finally in place it looks great and it is all one piece with no seams. I hope this will protect the fiberglass and paint of the rear bodywork from all that heat coming up from the engine and exhaust system.

Ron also has a lot done with the emergency brake system- calipers in place, two of the three cables run, and close to being able to order the primary cable which will run from the handle back into the engine area where the splitter and clevises are mounted. I think this system will work very well.

The seat backs are painted and all the bracketry that holds them in is done. Webbing is on the way and I have some sources for the clips; I meant to measure for them today but ran out of time up there. The only other thing I have to figure out for the seats is what the panel in the middle of the fiberglass seat back- the part that is laced to the seat back itself- is made of. The photos I have don't show what it is, but it is some flexible material that can accommodate lacing without the cord tearing through. The lacing material looks like parachute cord or something like it. So, lot of progress made, and fairly clear plans for all the rest.
 
Jim,

its great that its finally coming together...

I remember when we met at Monterey in 2003, and you were all a buzz about having the chassis and it moving forward...boy how time flies.

I look forward to seeing you at a meet sometime this year with 1149 parked close by...
 
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