Much has happened over the past few weeks.
  • I installed the external door handles and modified them so they lock.
  • I installed the hippo mirrors.
  • I innstalled the internal door panels. That includeds fabricating brackets for the interanal door handles.
  • I install the internal cables between thew bear claw, ijteranl door handle, and external door handle.
  • I fabricated the tail wire harness. Since I modifiesd the ISIS harness routing, it did not reach the tail. I added a weather pack connector so the tail can be easily removed.
  • Installed the intake filter. I decided to go with a filter element that fits inside the 4" intake.
  • I installed the final prototype cable shift mechanism. You may recall that I have been partnering with Jim at CableShift on the new "Fran-kin" box shifter for the shortened G50 transaxle.

I have been close to doing a roadtest for several weeks. It seems like there is always one more thing in my way. Recently it was:
  • The shifter runs thru the 6 forward gears, but I can't seem to get it into reverse. Any suggestions?
  • The low pressure fuel pump failed today, so I ordered a replacement pump. I do have a filter on the input side, so I guess its just an early life failure.

The biggest delay was a 2 week planned vacation to hike the New Hampshire section of the Appalachian Trail. I've hiked the AT all the way up from Georgia, and this was definitely the toughest section yet. There is one 4000 ft climb after another over wind swept rocky ridges. The occasional views from 2000ft above tree line were reward enough.

Its good to be back in the garage just doing car builder acrobatics now.
 

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I had Stan inspect, invert and change some gearing in my G50.20. Part of his inverting procedure is a modification to the reverse spring to make it easier to shift into reverse.

With the cable shifter, even without the modification, you should be able to get it into reverse. It may be as simple as a cable adjustment. Can you feel the spring detent when you push the shifter left of the point directly between 1st and 2nd?
 
No, I cannot feel the reverse detent spring.

While trying to get it into reverse, I wiggled the shifter fore/aft to find the gate, but no luck.
 
Could it be related to:

I spoke with Stan from Gbox. He was certain that the mystery pin is a
"Reverse Lever Pathway Pin"

I don't know Porsche boxes but remember your post regarding the mystery part found in the box...
 
Yup, I was wondering about that as well.

When I first found that little pin clinging to the magnetic drain plug, I called the guy who sold me the G50. He said he had driven it quite a bit and it shifted OK.
 
No, I cannot feel the reverse detent spring.

While trying to get it into reverse, I wiggled the shifter fore/aft to find the gate, but no luck.

I heard of stories of people not being able to or having a difficult time moving the shifter left to engage reverse. Stories of having to use both hands and leverage to move the shifter left. I'm curtain this is the reason for the modification Stan does as part of the invert.

You may want to ask Stan or one of the Porsche transaxle experts about your specific issue.

FYI and in the case you want to try it directly from the transaxle...

If you're looking at the box, from behind the SL-C, during the shifter movement it will be a CW rotation and then aft on the shaft. Just like 1st gear, just with another degree or two of CW before the movement aft.
 
I heard of stories of people not being able to or having a difficult time moving the shifter left to engage reverse. Stories of having to use both hands and leverage to move the shifter left. I'm curtain this is the reason for the modification Stan does as part of the invert.

You may want to ask Stan or one of the Porsche transaxle experts about your specific issue.

FYI and in the case you want to try it directly from the transaxle...

If you're looking at the box, from behind the SL-C, during the shifter movement it will be a CW rotation and then aft on the shaft. Just like 1st gear, just with another degree or two of CW before the movement aft.

If i'm not mistaken, the reverse detent spring is shortened to 12mm in length as the fix for very stiff movement into reverse. G-50 guys chime in please.
 
I got my e-brake cable from RCR and installed it today. I decided to mount the e-brake handle on the left side of the cockpit, and to keep out of the way of driver entry/exit.

  • I fabbed some hidden brackets for the e-brake handle. The clearance on the right rear is limited by the movement of the cable clamp, so there is no room for mounting screws on that corner.
  • I mounted the individual cable adjusters from within the fuel management compartment.
  • The cable must be secured to the bottom of the lower A-arm to keep it from rubbing the wheel.

The finished e-brake system seems to work smoothly and has good holding power
 

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I also recently mounted mine to the left side of the drivers seat. The passenger side ES cable length fit fine. The drivers side cable I shortened. And yes, the cables will rub the inner wheel if you do not secure them up and against the lower control arms. My passenger side caliper is too loose and won't grip though - even with the using the caliper adjustment bolt - so at the moment only my drivers is locking down. I have to revisit that caliper that is not clamping to see why I can't get within feeler gauge space spec. The issue is not apparent at the moment....
 
Both my calipers are clamping well.

You mentioned that you tried adjusting the "caliper adjustment bolt". If you are referring to the adjustment bolt on the caliper, that is for centering the caliper on the rotor.

It sounds like your passenger side cable was a little loose when you tightened the set screws on the cable pull block.

With e-brake handle down, have you tried loosening the set screws on the cable pull block, and then pulling any slack in the cable with pliers as you re-tighten the set screws?
 
Bill did the cables come cut at the required different lengths? Or were you able to shorten them as required?


No Ken, the cables do not come pre-cut to length. You must custom cut them to accommodate your routing. I 'm in the process of installing them now and like others have posted, I too located my brake handle on the drivers side; it appears that I will have more than enough cable.
Jim
 
Lately I've been watching the new TV series "Patrick Dempsey: Racing Le Mans" on the Velocity network. Patrick is an amateur racer who is trying to up his game to compete at the 24 hours of Le Mans. It follows the mistakes, mishaps and tough lessons an amateur must overcome to be competitive. For example:
  • Practicing pit stops and driver changes
  • Staying out of accidents
  • Acquiring sponsors and ensuring they keep their funding commitments
  • Buying one of the last Lola GT Prototypes before they went out of business, so parts and tech support are not available.
  • Pushing other priorities aside, so he can get more seat time.

Is anyone else watching "Patrick Dempsey: Racing Le Mans"?

BTW, Patrick Dempsey is one of the actors in the TV series "Greys Anatomy"
 
Speaking of "Seat time"...

I fabricated my seat cross braces and sliders a long time ago, but I finally glued it in this week.

It turned out to be quite a solid.
 

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Bill, what sort of epoxy did you use to glue the seat to the cross rails? It looks as though you glued the rails accross the bottom and bolts the seats to the side brackets that bolt to the sliders.

I've been watching the Patrick Dempsey mini-series also. It's actually a lot more interesting than I thought it would be.
 
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Yup, I had my doubts about a TV star in the racing series, but it's more engaging that I expected.

I attached my seat bottom with West Marine epoxy resin (105/205) mixed with 406 Colloidal Silica.
 
This morning was the big event!

I got my replacement low pressure fuel pump yesterday afternoon and installed it last night. I woke up bright and early to a wonderful Fall day where all the pieces fell into place.

I fired up my motor and took my SLC for its first drive. It ran, shifted, steered and stopped great! I scored bonus points for not bottoming out at the end of my driveway, not having to push my car, and not needing my fire extinguisher.

The main problems were:
  • I still can't get into reverse
  • I got a an engine check light. I had OBDII 172 & 175 codes, which indicate the the motor is running rich. After some troubleshooting I discovered that the air filter is too restrictive. I put a new filter on order today.

The Fall 2013 Charlotte Auto Fair is next weekend. Its one of the largest cruise-ins in the country. It's been my goal to have my SLC drive-able by then, so I can debut at the show. My SLC will be in a raw fiberglass state, but I think I'm going to make it. :pepper:
 
Congrats on the milestone Bill. :2thumbsup:

System Rich DCTs.... Usually p0171 and p0174 System Lean (bank 1 and bank2) and the occasional p0300 Misfire, show up requiring a tune to resolve. You may see this once the intake restriction is resolved with a more appropriate sized filter.
 
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