Won't the 930 transaxle with LSD work just fine. I know it's a 4 speed but I believe the gearing is compatible with the V8 and they can handle the torque. This is just based on my research so please correct me if I'm talking out my arse. I actually hoped to place my order this past June, I even sold my ff5 cobra for the extra cash......... Sadly I had a business deal go bad and had to use my cash to shore up some household finances. Family before toys and all that. Blah blah blah. Still enjoying the site and living through other member builds. At least for now. Good luck with your build Rumbles.
 
Lessons learned on the motor and trans selection

A couple thoughts and lessons learned about the motor and trans selection:



Motor: The LS3 has not been on the market very long, so the cost of a used motor is close that of a new one.
  • Used: $5.5k-$7.5k
    • Get a LS3 from a G8 or 2010-2013 Camaro and the Assy drive should fit within the SLC frame
    • Get the original ECU, harness and the fuse/relay box
  • New: $6.5k + harness + ECU + Alternator + front assy drive
Transaxle: The least expensive route is a stock Porsche G50 type transaxle. The downside is that none of these stock G50 trannys have good gear ratios for a V8, unless you get into a turbo box that costs in excess of $10k.

I'm new to the Island of Porsche and I've read widely varying opinions on the durability of the G50 trans. Some say they are easlily capable of 450HP and simply invert them, while others recommend full beefy rebuilds. Each opinion seams to have its merits. I don't normally bang gears, so I plan start with just a stock G50/21 and see how it goes. If it self destructs, it will make a good bar stool story and I'll buy another. Two stock transaxles are about the same cost as one rebuilt one.

I know that one day I will want to sell my SLC and move onto another car, so I think about what may be important to a perspective buyer. I don't need to make money on the sale, but I don't want to loose my shirt either. A 930 works, but it is a 4 speed. With $70k+ invested in the typical SLC build, a 4 speed may not be in tune with that price point.
 
Bill

Most of the G50's we had destroyed at the track had 3rd gear come apart.

It appeared that the gear teeth did not like the constant down shifting and appeared to have ripped off from decelerations and not accelerations.

Down shifting and using the engine to help with braking.
 
I read in a Porsche forum that 2nd & 3rd gears/syncros may fail if you skip gears when downshifting. I.E. Downshifting from 5th directly to 3rd. Appearently this causes the gears to "clash" into each other and causes premature damage. Just wondering, were you skipping gears?

Bill

Most of the G50's we had destroyed at the track had 3rd gear come apart.

It appeared that the gear teeth did not like the constant down shifting and appeared to have ripped off from decelerations and not accelerations.

Down shifting and using the engine to help with braking.
 
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I was at the Charlotte AutoFair this past weekend where there were thousands of cars on display. I took a close look under the hood of several 2010-2012 Camaros and G8s with LS3. In fact, I had my head so far down in the engine bay that it made the owners nervous:rolleyes2:

The alternator is mounted low and tucked in close to the block so it "looked" like it would fit.


Have you actually tried one of these LS3s in a SLC?

The accessory drive on the 2010/13 Camaro LS3 will not fit. It sticks out too far.
 
Engine harness

Thanks for posts on the engine harness below. I looked at GM Performance Parts, Current Performance and several other harness providers. I also explored pulling the Fuse / relay box from the donor Vette.

I decided to go with the Current Performance. They are building a custom harness to accommodate the reversed intake and mounting the ECU in front of the motor. Their prices are good as well.

I'm also going to Current Performance for my ECU flash. I decided not to do the mail order tune.

They are running a 4-5 week backlog, so I should have my harness and ECU by about the end of Oct.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
The accessory drive sticks out way too far on the 2010+ Camaro. I have not tried installing one. It is almost out as far as the truck accessory drive. You need to look closely at how far the water pump extends out front and how "deep dished" the balancer is compared to the Corvette/ CTS V setup.

If you pick a G8 LS3 then look for the GXP and not the GT. The GXP is LS3 and the GT was LS2.
 
I was at the Charlotte AutoFair this past weekend where there were thousands of cars on display. I took a close look under the hood of several 2010-2012 Camaros and G8s with LS3. In fact, I had my head so far down in the engine bay that it made the owners nervous:rolleyes2:

The alternator is mounted low and tucked in close to the block so it "looked" like it would fit.


Have you actually tried one of these LS3s in a SLC?

Just buy the stuff you need from Fran.
 
Ahhh, OK

I did notice that the crank pulley wasa different type.

The accessory drive sticks out way too far on the 2010+ Camaro. I have not tried installing one. It is almost out as far as the truck accessory drive. You need to look closely at how far the water pump extends out front and how "deep dished" the balancer is compared to the Corvette/ CTS V setup.

If you pick a G8 LS3 then look for the GXP and not the GT. The GXP is LS3 and the GT was LS2.
 
Jim, just read your post. The 930 will work just fine. That's what I'm using on my build. 930 LSD, inverted.
 
Motor mods

I've been preparing my LS3 motor while waiting for my SLC to arrive.

1. I removed the power steering pump, EVAP surge solenoid, starter, flex plate, GM AC compressor, etc.

2. I reversed my intake manifold and blocked off the oil pressure sender boss. I also noticed a valley plate bolt at the rear of the motor that interfers with the manifold. A little grinding on the plastic manifold made quick work of that.
Intake mod1.jpg Intake mod2.jpg

3. Cleaned up the motor

4. I fabricated an accessory drive for the Alternator and water pump. This was pretty simple. Just cut up the original Alternator / Power Steering pump bracket, add an idler pulley, and then fab a couple simple spacers and brackets. I was able to use the original belt so the total cost was just $16!
assy drive mod1.jpgassy drive mod2 small.jpg assy drive mod3.jpg
 
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Ken Roberts

Supporter
Keep in mind that with the Jeep idler up so high like that you will need to modify the water outlet pipe on the water pump to shoot straight up.
 
The WP inlet will also need modification. I simply cut it at the base of the "bell", rotated it to point directly out to the side and rewelded. Use a 160 deg. thermostat.
The ECU can be programmed to change the fan on/off temps too.
 
The WP inlet will also need modification. I simply cut it at the base of the "bell", rotated it to point directly out to the side and rewelded. Use a 160 deg. thermostat.
The ECU can be programmed to change the fan on/off temps too.

160 is too low imho - should be 195 t-stat, fans off/on at 205*. Probably also 180 is okay (although I don't know because don't efi engines need to be at a certain water temp before the ecu goes out of ?closed? loop mode?)
 
Fans 180 and 195. This is what I have been advised by one of the best LS tuners
in North America. 160 thermostat.
 
Assy Drive before and after PIC

Meant to post this PIC with the others of my Assy Drive modification
 

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