Rumbles SLC Build
- Thread starter rumbles
- Start date
-
- Tags
- g50 gear ls3 powernation rumbles slc superlight yellow
LS3 Motor Mounts
I'm building a street car, so I want motor mount isolators to reduce NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) in the cabin. My LS3 came with the C6 Corvette motor isolators, but they were too flexible for the SLC application. I looked at all the LS motor mount / isolators out there. The recommended Pfat isolators would do the job, but I thought $260 was outrageous for couple padded rod ends.
I decided to use a biscuit isolator that is commonly used in Hot Rods. If needed, this style of isolator can be tightened to reduce engine movement further.
I then fabricated the mounts from 2x2" square steel tube. The mounts are extra long, so they can be trimmed to fit the SLC cross member when my kit arrives. There is a slot in the back of the mounts so the underside of the isolator can be accessed. The mounts will be positioned so the slots are hidden when looking down into the engine bay.
Total cost was $26.
I'm building a street car, so I want motor mount isolators to reduce NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) in the cabin. My LS3 came with the C6 Corvette motor isolators, but they were too flexible for the SLC application. I looked at all the LS motor mount / isolators out there. The recommended Pfat isolators would do the job, but I thought $260 was outrageous for couple padded rod ends.
I decided to use a biscuit isolator that is commonly used in Hot Rods. If needed, this style of isolator can be tightened to reduce engine movement further.
I then fabricated the mounts from 2x2" square steel tube. The mounts are extra long, so they can be trimmed to fit the SLC cross member when my kit arrives. There is a slot in the back of the mounts so the underside of the isolator can be accessed. The mounts will be positioned so the slots are hidden when looking down into the engine bay.
Total cost was $26.
Attachments
Last edited:
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Keep in mind that if you elect to add "soft" mounts they need to be added at the adapter and transaxle locations as well. The engine and transaxle must move as one or you could end up with stress cracks. Hinson also sells Corvette mounts. http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-1351-hms-urethane-engine-mounts-shorter-version-c5c6gtorx7.aspx
Ken,
Yup, I plan to fabricate mounts with isolators for the rear mounts as well. I'll have to wait until the SLC kit arrives to work on them. Does anyone have PICs of rear mounts/isolators they fabricated?
The Hinson mounts you referenced look much more substantial than the Pfat units, and worth their $165 asking price. Dang....I did not see these in my search.
Yup, I plan to fabricate mounts with isolators for the rear mounts as well. I'll have to wait until the SLC kit arrives to work on them. Does anyone have PICs of rear mounts/isolators they fabricated?
The Hinson mounts you referenced look much more substantial than the Pfat units, and worth their $165 asking price. Dang....I did not see these in my search.
Did you increase the overal height of the engine? height is no beuno here, pretty damn tight as is
Too complex for me; I only understand to man up and solid bolt everything together ... there, no movement, nice and simple :laugh:
Too complex for me; I only understand to man up and solid bolt everything together ... there, no movement, nice and simple :laugh:
Ken Roberts
Supporter
I think Wayne had pictures on here of how he did the mounts in the middle and back.
I found them....
Last edited:
lulz
Dry sump?
Corvette wet sump pan is like 1/16'' above the front crossbeam and maybe 1/8'' or so (best guess) above the chassis rails, so, um, yea, basically stock height is the max drop unless things have changed
Heres some pic's of what I did, pretty much the same as Wayne's only I used Urethene bushings.
Attachments
Last edited:
Here's some pic's they did start life out as 3" elbows and I had some flanges water jet cut. I have seen flanges on Ebay as well. It was pretty simple to do and they worked out pretty good I have them mocked up to the mufflers so far not shown in the pic's the 180 deg turn back and out the sides. I want to finalize a few more things before I place the turn outs. If need be I will have room for two more mufflers if I find it still to loud.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Grant
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Grant
Attachments
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Nice work Grant!
I did a few calculations and found that a 4.2" circumference pipe would span the LS7 oval flange. A 4" pipe can easily be expanded to 4.2" with a pipe expander. So expand a 4" elbow and use a simple vise to shape it into a oval shape and vwola, it fits the LS7 flange. I bought a pair of water jet cut LS7 flanges for $45 to try.
The challenge is to make a larger 4' radius elbow fit within the confining space, run it thru a 4" to 3" adapter and the rest is easy...yea right!:shocked2:
The challenge is to make a larger 4' radius elbow fit within the confining space, run it thru a 4" to 3" adapter and the rest is easy...yea right!:shocked2:
Bill it depends where you want to come out with it. I don't know what your plans are,
but I had to make it turn real fast to get them out where I routed mine.
I wouldn't have been able to do it using 4" elbows. The pic's don't really show it well but the turn out is nearly plumb with the back edge of the flange it is a very quick turn and it has to swoop upwards a bit as well. post pic's I would like to see how they turn out.
Cheers,
Grant
but I had to make it turn real fast to get them out where I routed mine.
I wouldn't have been able to do it using 4" elbows. The pic's don't really show it well but the turn out is nearly plumb with the back edge of the flange it is a very quick turn and it has to swoop upwards a bit as well. post pic's I would like to see how they turn out.
Cheers,
Grant
