Rumbles SLC Build

[Bill]

I cut all the vents out of the body.

I pretty much cut long the typical outlines, except for the side vents. I thought the side vents looked a bit square and did fit with the lines of the rest of the body. I cut a more curved shape using the rear wheel well as my guide. IMHO, I think the side vents now compliment the overall body lines.

If my calculations are correct, it also nearly doubles the area of the vent.

 

[Jack]

Fantasitc job Bill, looking good!

 

[Howard Jones]

Interesting variation on the side scoop. I like it. Maybe I'll open the leading edge of the scoop on mine a bit.

This is the fun of the SLC we can all put our own interpretation on it. It will be very interesting to see the variety that comes from this in years to come.

 

[Les]

I cut all the vents out of the body.

Excellent job, Bill! Those pesky vents cause no end of problems in the SLC. Getting rid of them will solve them all!

A bold, radical move. I salute you! :thumbsup:

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

No end of problems...not really ...there needs to be a vent in that location for airflow regardless of shape/size.
We have done similar shaping on a couple of cars in the past..it looks good.

 

[Les]

No end of problems...not really ...there needs to be a vent in that location for airflow regardless of shape/size.
We have done similar shaping on a couple of cars in the past..it looks good.

No, no! Fran, I used the phrase "cut out" as an American dieter would use "cut out": "I cut out carbs", I cut out spaghetti", etc.

So, I intentionally misunderstood him to say that he cut out--got rid of--all the vents, like, the opening to the radiator, the opening to allow air into the engine, etc. Such "cutting out" would not "cure all the problems": it would render the car totally inoperative!

(I was trying to make a joke.)

Les

 

[Bill]

I hung my doors today.

The best advice I can give you is to watch Allan’s "SL-C Build xx" YouTube videos 41 thru 49 before you start. They are very helpful.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyqDgtWRoKA]SLC BUILD 41 DOORS - YouTube[/ame]

Cut the hole for the Hinge pivot
Mounting the hinges on the body took the longest time. I like to make the holes in the body as small and tight as possible. So I only used the template outlines that RCR drew on the body to give a general idea of where the cuts will be. I start by cutting a smaller hole in the middle of the template area, then test fit the hinge and cut a little more, test fit the hinge and cut a little more, test fit the hinge and cut a little more... Repeat this about 150 times until the hinge fits all the way thru the hole with reasonably tight clearance. This detail takes a couple additional hours but it was worth it to me. See the PIC of the cut hole vs the template.

Cut the Slot for the Hinge arm
The left and right hinge brackets are mirror images of each other. One of Allen’s tips was to use the opposite hinge to double check the door jam template marks. My driver’s side was right on, but my passenger side bolt holes were a little off. Here too, I like to make the hinge arm slot in the body as small as possible, so I start by cutting a smaller hole in the middle of the arm swing and work my way out. See the PIC of the cut hole vs the template.

Drill the Hinge bolt holes in the Doors
With the rod end in the middle of its adjustment, rotate the hinge arm down until the flat end is parallel with the door jam. Use tape to mark the top and bottom of where the hinge arm is in the jam. Position the door where you want it, and use a marker from the front side of the door jam to outline the slot between the tape on to the door. With the studs removed from the hinge arm, lay the flat end next to your mark on the door to determine where to drill the bolt holes. I drilled the holes a little oversized to allow for some door adjustment. The door fiberglass is a bit weak where it bolts to the hinge, so I added a stiffening plate inside of the door.

 

[Bill]

I finished the final touches on my ignition wiring.

I measured the standby current draw from the ISIS system and its 0.4Amp. It drains my battery within a week, so I decided to add a battery cutoff relay. The downside is:

• The ISIS security with remotes are rendered useless
• The ISIS system takes 4 seconds to wake up after power is applied.

I can live with that.

I've been debating whether to use the One-Button start or a traditional key ignition switch.

I'm building a street car, so I decided to go with a key ignition, but I wanted to carry only 1 key. Since the outside door handles are from a 1997 Miata, I bought a complete 1997 Miata lockset with the electrical harness pigtail on ebay for $80.

The Miata ignition key locks the steering column so its about 6" long by 6" wide. There are a couple ways to mount the switch to the SLC structure. You could use the threaded holes for the clamp mount or there is a set of 3 mounting bosses that are in a flat plain. I choose the later.

To make the 3 mounting bosses easier to manage, I cutoff part of the mounting arms and re-drilled the holes.

The electrical system is the next challenge. The Miata switch supplies 12V to the ignition system, but the ISIS system requires ground signal inputs. I reconfigured the Miata switch to be a ground seeking circuit.

• Accessory: Ground for radio only. Power relay is not activated.
• On: Power relay’s coil is grounded. ISIS Ignition Sw is always grounded.
• Start: Power relay’s coil, ISIS Ignition Sw, and ISIS Starter Sw signals are grounded.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Bill,
First let me say I know nothing about the ISIS system or how it works. But I take exception to what you said about the ignition switch and the push button start. I like the key lock feature. It adds one more layer of security. You can never have enough. I don't think anyone trying to steal my car without a tow truck woud ever get it started even if they had the key. It takes 4 seperate functions to get it to crank.

First, in your everyday driver, when is the last time you turned the switch to acessory to listen to the radio????

Second, with a push button start all you have is a connection to the starter. I routinely use my start button(key switch in off position) to spin the engine to get and check the oil pressure when I haven't started the car for some time. I can get my oil pressure up to 40-50 lbs. This way I don't have to pull the plugs to do it.

Third, You can have both an ignition key and a start button. At least I do.The start button is wired to the coil side of the relay. The relay is hot all the time. No battery drain as it doesn't do anything til the coil is closed(grounded). And I still have the acc. position available if I need it. I don't because I don't have a radio. The ignition switch when in the run position only activates the elctronics and everything else just like it is supposed to. The start position for the switch is not wired. My start key came with the wiring kit and I put it in before I decided to go with the push button. Changing that wiring around was very simple.

My start swtch is from a Honda S2000. The wiring diagram is from the web.

If you want to use remotes for locking, and unlocking wire them seperately from the ISIS system.

I understand your system is more complicated than mine. I'll leave the differences in wiring(ISIS) up to you to figure out!! I hope this gives you some things to think about.

Bill

 

[Vidal]

Just my $0.02 cents.

I was under the impression that the push button start using the ISIS functioned like an OEM. But if it does not and you still want the modernization and "cool factor"..........

I would opt for an aftermarket RFID Push button start system. With this system you get an OEM like push button start system. It is not a button wired to actuate the starter after you've already gone through the motions of a key start ( which IMO just adds another step to starting the vehicle and negates any "cool factor").

The system is wired into the ignition system and adds another layer of security as the ignition is disabled until the system's ID fob is in range.

You get OEM like functionality. Press the start button, without depressing the brake, and the system powers up the ACC circuit. Press it again, foot still off the brake, and the ign system is powered up. Press it again and and it turns off the ign. Now Press the brake (and clutch) and a press of the start button powers up the ignition and then starts the vehicle. To shut down the ignition, depress the brake and then press the start button.

Bill,
I'm really enjoying your build thread. Keep up the meticulous work. It wont be too long before your karting....

 

[Bill]

Vidal,

A RFID ignition system is an interesting idea. I found this one on ebay ->HT N003 Auto Passive Keyless Entry Car Alarm with Backup RFID Push Button Start | eBay

This unit solves the ignition security issue, locks/unlocks the doors and provides an Accessory mode. You also get the sexy Start Button rockonsmile

 

[Michael]

Yep... Also check out Digital Guard Dawg. It's a little more pricey, but it will give you another system to compare against.

Keyless Ignition* RFID Push Button Start systems

This is what I am using. (iKey -Push Button Start and Keyless Entry) They have a very good help desk to answer your questions as well.

I also bought the Lexus Push-Start Button to go along with it.

Mike

 

[Ben Whittle]

I have a link to one at home which looked like it had gotten a good following, I shall try and find it when I get home.

 

[Michael Fling]

Would either of theses systems negate the use of the system that Allan refers to and included in his last build (the system that "pops" the doors open)?

 

[Ben Whittle]

Would either of theses systems negate the use of the system that Allan refers to and included in his last build (the system that "pops" the doors open)?

I don't know about negate but I guess once you are close to the car and it automatically unlocks, you could still have a button that you could manually pop the door with?

Anyway, here's the alternate system to the 'Digital Guard Dawg' that I found a while ago that I see to recall was a lot better for a lot less money ($350 vs $600):

Advanced Keys - AK-104B Smart Key with Push Start System

Much more professional website although that doesn't necessarily mean anything and looking at both of the components I'd place money they are actually the same system (probably from China) just repackaged which if that's the case, why pay $600 when you can pay $350...

 

[Vidal]

Would either of theses systems negate the use of the system that Allan refers to and included in his last build (the system that "pops" the doors open)?

…Well……Yes*……

*If the system has additional channels. All of the systems I've seen only have one accessories channel (the hatch release). One option is to use the hatch release channel/button to actuate the driver’s door solenoid, via relay.


This strays from the question slightly, but a capacitive touch hidden switch, would be a great option for actuating the door solenoids, if you’re using and RFID system. It can be installed in the door placing the sensor in the area where the door handle would be or near the area you would grab once the door is open. So a simple swipe of the hand opens the door instead of having to push a fob button.

 

[Bill]

I bleed my brakes today.

There are several methods for bleeding the brakes. Some do it the old fashioned way by pumping the pedal, some use a vacuum pump on each bleed valve and some push the fluid by applying pressure to the master cylinder reservoir.

I have another method called the "Margarita Method". The process starts by inviting your significant other into the garage. After complimenting her on her garb, comfortably sit her in the driver's seat and hand her a Margarita. Then bark out the commands "Push the pedal in - Let the pedal out - Drink", "Push the pedal in - Let the pedal out - Drink", "Push the pedal in - Let the pedal out - Drink"...

I get very reliable results with Margarita Method. I ended up with a rock hard brake pedal and very pliable spouse.epper:

 

[Bill]

Just watched the latest episode of Gearz. They had an update on the SLC showing the twin turbo setup and exhaust.

David Stacey says Stainless Works now makes and exhaust for the SLC. I looked on their website but didn't see a reference to the SLC.

 

[Howard Jones]

So rock hard and pliable...........does this mean we have our first "broken in SLC"...........hummmmmmmm


Remember....nothing happened without pictures, new car, gotta see it, longest burn out, video required, "breaking in" your SLC...........well maybe we can take your word for that one.

OR move this post to the Padock.......

 

[Bill]

I put the finishing touches on the electrical system.

I wanted a clean engine bay so I decided to hide the rear ISIS Power cell, ISIS mega fuses, Battery, fuel pumps, fuel filters, engine relays, ECU, etc. All the fuel components are located to the left of the fuel tank and electrical components are mounted in the left wing.

The relocated components are then hidden by aluminum panels.

The electrical components are located so they can be easily accessed for maintenance from the engine bay or thru the cockpit side panels. I left some excess wiring so the electrical components can be pulled out for maintenance. For example, with the car on jack stands, the battery can be pulled out and set on the floor while still connected.