Very Nice Work! I enjoyed seeing your attention to detail in the video. I also saw other videos on your YouTube page concerning loose linkage in the front. What was the cause and solution?
Rumbles SLC Build
- Thread starter rumbles
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- g50 gear ls3 powernation rumbles slc superlight yellow
Loose rod ends. I replaced them and the rattling has not returned.
I've noticed that my brake's "grip" seem to fade over time. I think this is due to the fact that they are over-built for the SLC. In other words, the brakes were engineered for a 3700lb car but are installed on a 2600lb car.
The brakes seem to be glazing over in normal street driving, since it only takes light pedal pressure for most stops. If I do a brake "break-in" routine of several hard stops in a row, the brake grip improves significantly.
Is anyone else experiencing this gripping problem?
The brakes seem to be glazing over in normal street driving, since it only takes light pedal pressure for most stops. If I do a brake "break-in" routine of several hard stops in a row, the brake grip improves significantly.
Is anyone else experiencing this gripping problem?
You are heating the pads is why. They have many different types of pads you can try, including ones that provide higher initial cold bite, instead of ones that need to be heated first.
What pads are you running? I started with Wilwood BP10 pads that were pretty conservative. I noticed they were cooking and had a glaze over them. I switched to EBC green then red stuff. Each time braking got noticeably better. I really wanted Bluestuff that were a bit more aggressive but waited 3 months. I dont think EBC had enough orders for my old C4 rotors. The may make them for the Camaro Brembos. Everyone seems to swear by a particular brand, Hawk, Stop Tech etc. I'm sure they all have comparable pads, I'm just waiving the EBC flag...
Bluestuff Intermediate grade Trackday pads
Bluestuff Intermediate grade Trackday pads
After I've done the series of hard stops, the improved braking performance lasts for 300-500 miles of around town driving, so I don't think its heat.
I'm just using the pads that came with the SLC kit. I've been thinking about replacing the pads to improve braking. I've had good luck with PowerStop brake packages. They come with drilled/slotted rotors as well.
I'd probably go with a more aggressive street pad and stay away from racing pads, since they require pre-heating to work properly.
I'm just using the pads that came with the SLC kit. I've been thinking about replacing the pads to improve braking. I've had good luck with PowerStop brake packages. They come with drilled/slotted rotors as well.
I'd probably go with a more aggressive street pad and stay away from racing pads, since they require pre-heating to work properly.
Bill
For what it's worth, I track my Corvette all the time and have used Stop Tech cryogenic rotors with stop tech pads, and EBC rotors with either CarboTech or EBC yellowstuff. For track days I found the EBC / CarboTech combination gave me the best performance (3300 lbs). Since I also street drive the car, I settled on EBC plus yellowstuff for an all around combination. Got tired of changing pads out all the time........just crazy that way!
But like you said, everyone has a different experience.
For what it's worth, I track my Corvette all the time and have used Stop Tech cryogenic rotors with stop tech pads, and EBC rotors with either CarboTech or EBC yellowstuff. For track days I found the EBC / CarboTech combination gave me the best performance (3300 lbs). Since I also street drive the car, I settled on EBC plus yellowstuff for an all around combination. Got tired of changing pads out all the time........just crazy that way!
But like you said, everyone has a different experience.
Dan,
It's good to get your real life comparison. I'll take a look at EBC Yellowstuff.
It's good to get your real life comparison. I'll take a look at EBC Yellowstuff.
Yup, It's behind the driver in the side pod. I used an Odyssey 925 AGM compact battery and its just the right size to fit between the between the aluminum chassis and fiberglass body. I fab'd an aluminum cover to hide it as well.
If you put the battery there, you will need to jack the car to replace it. I recommend you use cables long enough so you can pull the battery and place on the garage floor while still connected. That makes replacement a snap.
If you put the battery there, you will need to jack the car to replace it. I recommend you use cables long enough so you can pull the battery and place on the garage floor while still connected. That makes replacement a snap.
I am doing a remote mount post for easy charging/jumping. Easy to do and can hide battery. For guys with electric door locks, or motorized doors, you could hide under the back somewhere so you could jump on to it to open car with dead battery.
The positive terminal of the battery is directly connected to the starter and alternator, so you can jump at either of those components.
Howard Jones
Supporter
About your battery. The 925. I absolutely love Odyssey batteries. I have bought 3 of them, two for my GT40 (the first one lasted 11 years) and one for my SLC. Light, compact, pretty much maintenance free.
HOWEVER I am beginning to think the 925 is marginal in my SLC.
A little back ground. My GT40 has a SVO SBF 302 in it at 9.25 to 1 CR with relative light valve springs and moderate lift cam. The 925 cranks it just fine and seams to even hold up for long cold starts in the winter. As much as 1 min of cranking total. doesn't phase it.
BUT my SLC with a 355 SBC @ near 11 to 1 CR and quite a bit more cam and associated spring rates ...........well I get one good try and its jump it time.
So what am I saying? I might be changing it to a 1200 with twice the current capacity and if you have a similar engine configuration then maybe you might think about the larger battery.
HOWEVER I am beginning to think the 925 is marginal in my SLC.
A little back ground. My GT40 has a SVO SBF 302 in it at 9.25 to 1 CR with relative light valve springs and moderate lift cam. The 925 cranks it just fine and seams to even hold up for long cold starts in the winter. As much as 1 min of cranking total. doesn't phase it.
BUT my SLC with a 355 SBC @ near 11 to 1 CR and quite a bit more cam and associated spring rates ...........well I get one good try and its jump it time.
So what am I saying? I might be changing it to a 1200 with twice the current capacity and if you have a similar engine configuration then maybe you might think about the larger battery.
One of the details in the finished bodywork was to fill in the open mold cavity behind the front wheel wells. The cavity is more noticeable on the light colored car vs a dark paint color.
- I started by filling the cavity with foam and then working it down to a smooth molding surface.
- Then I applied 2 layers of 1708 fiberglass cloth.
- Lastly, Tony at Charlotte Speed Shop (AKA Dent's Charlotte) did the finished bodywork.
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Good idea Bill. Immediately ran out to look at mine......more glass work coming up.
If you plan to use a darker paint, the cavity is not as noticeable and you may not need to fill it.
With limited rearward viability, its a good idea to warn anyone behind you when backing up. One of my winter projects was to get the reverse lights working.
I have a G50-20 transaxle and it uses the same reverse switch that many other Porsche transaxles use. The stock Porsche electrical harness uses 2 individual 5mm male pins (no connector housing) with a rubber boot covering. However, Porsche charges $50 for 2 little pins and a boot!
Call me cheap, but there must be a better solution.
I have a G50-20 transaxle and it uses the same reverse switch that many other Porsche transaxles use. The stock Porsche electrical harness uses 2 individual 5mm male pins (no connector housing) with a rubber boot covering. However, Porsche charges $50 for 2 little pins and a boot!
Call me cheap, but there must be a better solution.
- I found that the male pins in an EC5 connector fit perfectly. An "EC5" connector costs $1 on ebay.
- An alternator boot fits perfectly over the connector to protect it. An alternator boot costs $5 on ebay.
