Rumbles SLC Build

[Mike]

AJ - I'm not quite sure what you're asking, but I think it's this:

3rd brake light issue: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ppp-20-702/overview/

Frt. marker Lmp: 48 LED Super Light Red replacement light

Hi Bill, I'm reading through notes that I have taken and stumbled upon the thread above (thread #517 if anyone wants to go back and see the diagram and photo). It made no sense to me at the time you wrote it because I didn't have my car yet. Now it is pertinent. I spoke to Jay Harris last week about solving this problem of having the front marker light receive inputs from the turn signal and driving lights with a single positive lead. It can be done by reprogramming the Infinity Box, yet we did discuss a circuit like the one you used. My question is first of all, why the resistor? Is it to make the marker light more dim than the turn signal, so when the marker light is on, when the turn signal is activated the marker light alternates from bright to dim? That's essentially what the IB solution will be.

I'll need to do something similar for the tail lights because I fabricated my own and have a separate element for the turn signal. The standard IB system has one output that handles the turn signal and the brake lights. To complicate matters, I have added a 3rd brake light. I don't think there is any way around having to send my mastercell to IB for that one. I could add relays, but that sort of defeats the value of the IB, and I have other features I want them to program for me as well.

A.J.

 

[Bill]

AJ,

You are correct, the resistors slightly dim the constant parking light, so the blinker can be seen as a brighter flashing light. Diodes only allow current to flow in 1 direction, so they prevent voltage from leaking between the lighting circuits.

I attached the circuit diagram below.

Hi Bill, I'm reading through notes that I have taken and stumbled upon the thread above (thread #517 if anyone wants to go back and see the diagram and photo). It made no sense to me at the time you wrote it because I didn't have my car yet. Now it is pertinent. I spoke to Jay Harris last week about solving this problem of having the front marker light receive inputs from the turn signal and driving lights with a single positive lead. It can be done by reprogramming the Infinity Box, yet we did discuss a circuit like the one you used. My question is first of all, why the resistor? Is it to make the marker light more dim than the turn signal, so when the marker light is on, when the turn signal is activated the marker light alternates from bright to dim? That's essentially what the IB solution will be.

I'll need to do something similar for the tail lights because I fabricated my own and have a separate element for the turn signal. The standard IB system has one output that handles the turn signal and the brake lights. To complicate matters, I have added a 3rd brake light. I don't think there is any way around having to send my mastercell to IB for that one. I could add relays, but that sort of defeats the value of the IB, and I have other features I want them to program for me as well.

A.J.

 

[Bill]

I went back and reviewed this (my) Rumbles SLC Build thread and realized its very hard to find pertinent information scattered in the many pages of posts. With nearly a thousand posts, its the longest thread in the SLC Clubhouse.

So I copied all the posts into a Build Journal document, and then did some extensive editing.

• The journal reorganizes the posts into a more logical and readable flow. Information from many separate posts were combined into a step-wise flow of full text descriptive tasks.
• Posts that did not contain information needed for builders was deleted.
• Added more tips, information, part numbers from my notes, that were not in this thread.
• Added a Table of Contents with hot links to each section
• I did quite a bit of text editing so it reads like book. My 6th grade English teacher would be proud!

The result is a 307 page document with over 500 photos. Its available on Amazon to be downloaded as a Kindle book. Its titled "Car Builder Journal: RCR SuperLite Coupe" and you can download it from -> here . This link also shows the other volumes in my "Car Builder Journal" series.

The Journal is meant to compliment (not replace) the RCR Build Manual and the SLC SLOG WiKi.

Sorry for the delay in getting this book published. It literally took several months to compile and edit.

Here's the cover and Table of Contents

 

[kris]

Wow, Bill! What an incredible gift

 

[David]

Nicely done, you amaze me again...

 

[Scott Rowland]

Nice work!

 

[Rich Kruger]

Hey Bill I don't see a chapter on how to make a day 34 hours long. You are an over achiever! Can't wait to get a copy.

 

[A.J. Schreder]

Wow Bill, thanks for this labor of love!

A.J.

 

[Tony Eupizi]

Outstanding job. The book is worth the price.

 

[Bill]

Hey Bill I don't see a chapter on how to make a day 34 hours long. You are an over achiever! Can't wait to get a copy.

The day stretching technique will be in my next publication "How to Build a Time Wrap Machine".

Stephen Hawking and I collaborated on it.

 

[Bill]

I've had a few questions on how to view the Kindle book.

You can use a Kindle device, Android tablet, Apple PC, iPad or Windows PC/tablet for Kindle books. Amazon provides a free Kindle App that works on Android, Apple or Windows.

The Kindle app automatically resizes the images depending upon the device and the screen size. There are literally hundreds of photos in my SLC Build Journal, so I recommend that you view it on a device with the large screen.

 

[Jack]

Outstanding job Bill!

 

[Mark Bajus]

amazing! Just bought it.

 

[Bill]

I made a video of my SLC cruising around on this hot 4th of July weekend here in the Carolinas.

Here is the SLC video

 

[Brian Kissel]

Nice video Bill. Excellent build. Congrats

 

[Ken Roberts]

Bill I was enjoying watching your "walk around video" again and something caught my eye. Your MAF sensor tube section needs to be spun around a slight amount (45 degrees). The MAF sensor is supposed to be mounted in the 3 o'clock to 12 o'clock position. I believe this is to prevent moisture from running down into it.

Page 2 of the this PDF describes the mounting position.

http://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...-naturally-aspirated-non-e-rod-except-lc9.pdf

 

[Bill]

Thanks for the tip!

Bill I was enjoying watching your "walk around video" again and something caught my eye. Your MAF sensor tube section needs to be spun around a slight amount (45 degrees). The MAF sensor is supposed to be mounted in the 3 o'clock to 12 o'clock position. I believe this is to prevent moisture from running down into it.

Page 2 of the this PDF describes the mounting position.

http://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...-naturally-aspirated-non-e-rod-except-lc9.pdf

 

[Mesa]

Nicely done video tour and a flexible assistant

 

[Aaron H.]

Great Bill...

Two suggestions for your fine literary contribution.

1) Add a chapter on suggested tools and fabrication knowledge.
2) I noticed that the index shows page 70 as "Brake caliber flex lines". Maybe that should be brake caliper.

Again, thank you for the great work.

 

[Bill]

Thanks for the suggestions on my SLC Build Journal Kindle book.

I just did a brake upgrade (new slotted/drilled rotors and more aggressive pads), so I'll be adding more content on the machining and cutting that is required. I'll make your suggested edits then as well.