Ken Roberts

Supporter
If you plan on spirited driving and want a faultless fuel system then some kind of surge tank is needed. It comes with the SLC purchase.
 
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I plan to start by adding a shallow reservoir to the bottom of the fuel tank. I have a similar wide flat bottom fuel tank in my current Hot rod, and I can only get to 12 of the 15 gal. The reservoir should help to drain the full tank capacity. The reservoir in combination with the baffles should also keep the fuel pickup submerged for most street driving. If I have any starvation problems, the surge tank you suggested looks like a good choice.

I'll include a fuel filter before the fuel pump and another after the pressure regulator.


I plan to use 3/8" fuel lines throughout.

I'll be running a Walbro GSL392 fuel pump.
gsl392_flow_graph_wm.jpg
 
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Ken Roberts

Supporter
Next you should decide if it will be returnless (one feed to the fuel rails with no return at the fuel rails) or will it have a feed to the rails and a return back to the tank.

If you are just using a crate motor LS3 than a returnless system is all you need and the filter I mentioned perfectly suits this horsepower level. You would exit the tank with a prefilter than your Walbro pump then to the Wix filter/regulator than on to the fuel rail connection. The filter/reg will then return the excess fuel back to the tank.

Here is picture of my Wix filter/reg. I installed permanent Swagelok fittings on the fuel in line and the fuel out line. The return to tank line can be adapted to a AN fitting as well. Best thing about this filter/reg is the fact it can be purchased for $39.

002-6.jpg
 
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Yup I'm going with a stock returnless LS3 fuel system.

Wow, $39 for filter and regulator. That's at about $100 less than the components I was looking at.

Thanks for the tip!
 
It comes with the SLC purchase.
Bill, sorry to interject into your wonderful build blog, but the surge tank does not come with the kit. It is $195.00. This comes directly from my invoice.
 
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Next you should decide if it will be returnless (one feed to the fuel rails with no return at the fuel rails) or will it have a feed to the rails and a return back to the tank.

If you are just using a crate motor LS3 than a returnless system is all you need and the filter I mentioned perfectly suits this horsepower level. You would exit the tank with a prefilter than your Walbro pump then to the Wix filter/regulator than on to the fuel rail connection. The filter/reg will then return the excess fuel back to the tank.

Here is picture of my Wix filter/reg. I installed permanent Swagelok fittings on the fuel in line and the fuel out line. The return to tank line can be adapted to a AN fitting as well. Best thing about this filter/reg is the fact it can be purchased for $39.

002-6.jpg

Weren't there some issues with a batch of those causing fires? I remember reading something about them, but can't remember what now.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
I'd be worried then Alex as they are used on your C5 Corvette up to 2003. The 2004 and up Corvettes went to a filter and regulator installed in the fuel bucket with the pump.

Never heard anything about them catching fire. The housing is stainless. The "WIX" brand name has a great reputation.

The surge tank was included with my SLC purchase Ben. I did not pay extra for it. I took delivery of my car in september 2012. It's fairly cheap as my link to it shows. I modified mine and made a windshield wiper washer reservoir out of it.
 
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I'd be worried then Alex as they are used on your C5 Corvette up to 2003. The 2004 and up Corvettes went to a filter and regulator installed in the fuel bucket with the pump.

Never heard anything about them catching fire. The housing is stainless. The "WIX" brand name has a great reputation.

The surge tank was included with my SLC purchase Ben. I did not pay extra for it. I took delivery of my car in september 2012. It's fairly cheap as my link to it shows. I modified mine and made a windshield wiper washer reservoir out of it.

I <3 Wix brand oil filters :heart:

I know they're used in the corvette, I just meant there was something about them a while back about them causing fires. I have no idea if it was some generic parts store ones or what, just remembered something when i saw the picture. Wish I could remember more details though. Oh well.
 
I've been finishing off some details on my LS3, while waiting for my SLC to arrive:
  • Drilled and tapped the water temp sender bung on the water pump
  • Drilled and tapped the oil pressure sender bung on the oil flow take-off plate next to oil filter
  • My wire harness came in from Curent Performance, so I installed it. I had them configure it so the ECM and power relays come off the front driver side, and to accomidate the reversed intake manifold. That will keep the clean look on the motor.
  • Ran the PCV vacum line and plugged the rest of the vacum lines
  • Bought the components needed for the fuel system, including the fuel rail quick disconnect, pump, filters & regulator.
Fuel and 12V is all that's needed to fire it up:pepper:
 
Regarding the fuel rail disconnect, I hope you bought the Aeromotive one - the other one (Russel) has been known to cause fires (I believe they updated the design after several cars caught on fire, but I've still seen it sold everywhere, and really, if a company tells people to f*k off when their products cause fuel fires, f*k 'em, lol)
 
I've been finishing off some details on my LS3, while waiting for my SLC to arrive:
  • Drilled and tapped the water temp sender bung on the water pump
  • Drilled and tapped the oil pressure sender bung on the oil flow take-off plate next to oil filter
  • My wire harness came in from Curent Performance, so I installed it. I had them configure it so the ECM and power relays come off the front driver side, and to accomidate the reversed intake manifold. That will keep the clean look on the motor.
  • Ran the PCV vacum line and plugged the rest of the vacum lines
  • Bought the components needed for the fuel system, including the fuel rail quick disconnect, pump, filters & regulator.
Fuel and 12V is all that's needed to fire it up:pepper:

I haven't started on my wiring yet as it will be the second last thing I do but I did notice that my digit dash comes with its own sensors so what I am wondering is, are both sets needed? the factory LS for the ISIS and the supplied digit dash for the Digit dash?
 
I haven't started on my wiring yet as it will be the second last thing I do but I did notice that my digit dash comes with its own sensors so what I am wondering is, are both sets needed? the factory LS for the ISIS and the supplied digit dash for the Digit dash?

ISIS just power the ECU, it has nothing to do with the sensors.

More than likely, you will delete the ecu oil pressure sensor and oil temp sensor (neither are needed). I measure OP and OT for the dash on the lower driver side by the oil filter. There are several adapters (e.g., TPE) that do this.

The digidash can take a reading from the passenger rear head for water tmep (it will read about 8* lower than it should though, so just add 8* onto your reading in your head to get the temp at the hottest point in the engine); the ecu will read water tmep from the driver front cylinder. It needs to see the water temp.

If you want to control fans on with the ISIS, the easiest way is to buy an ISIS iNVERT module, which will convert the switch 12v signal from the ecu (10ga wire) to an off/on signal for the master cell to turn the fans off/on whent he ecu says to.
 
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