Rumbles SLC Build

[Bill]

Cable shift installation

I'm working on my cable shifter system now. I got the transaxle bracket installed. I started to install the cables and rememebered that there was a problem with the cables melting if they were too close to the exhaust.

So, do you route the cables inboard tight to the engine oil pan or swing wide outboard thru the chassis?

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Outboard through the chassis....as far from the engine/exhaust as possible...

 

[Michael]

Re: Cable shift installation

I'm working on my cable shifter system now. I got the transaxle bracket installed. I started to install the cables and rememebered that there was a problem with the cables melting if they were too close to the exhaust.

So, do you route the cables inboard tight to the engine oil pan or swing wide outboard thru the chassis?

Bill,

I think either route you choose, you'll probably still want to use a heat barrier/sleeve over the cables. When the plastic covering on the cables begins to over heat and "melt", it really increases the amount of effort needed to shift. I've read where some people couldn't shift at all until it cooled and they were able to break the lines free on the sheathing.

I picked up a set of heat sleeves from D.E.I. products for both cables. I covered the length of each cable inside the engine bay, whether near the headers or not.

Shane suggested that the cables run outside of the exhaust headers/manifolds. I have one that runs up away from the exhaust, and one that routes from up and out, and then along the transaxle. Hopefully this picture will help. I'm not sure if the SLC allows for the same routing, but I would think it does.

Michael

 

[Bill]

I tried to route the cables outboard of the exhaust on both the left and right sides of the motor. Either way, it still runs close to one section the exhaust header and they come up 12"-18" too short. See PIC

I barly have enough cable to run them tight to the oil pan. See PIC

Does anyone have PICs of how they ran their shift cables?

Mike,

I agree, I will need some heat shield no matter what.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

You could contact Jim at Cableshift and have him swap out your cables if you would like longer ones....he is a good guy and very easy to work with.

 

[Alex]

I tried to route the cables outboard of the exhaust on both the left and right sides of the motor. Either way, it still runs close to one section the exhaust header and they come up 12"-18" too short. See PIC

I barly have enough cable to run them tight to the oil pan. See PIC

Does anyone have PICs of how they ran their shift cables?

Mike,

I agree, I will need some heat shield no matter what.

My cables run about 4 finger widths from my headers .... I wrapped it in a DEI velcro heat jacket and 3 layers of reflective tape. No problems on the dyno.

Whatever you do you'll want to wrap them, unless you're massively away form the exhaust

 

[Vidal]

Bill,
You're definitely going to need to get longer cables. A Positive is that you can order exactly the lengths you need.

Use some cheap tubing from the hardware store as an extension to your current cables to create the runs you need and determine the length.

I'm not familiar on where the cables enter the engine bay from the cockpit, but see if you can make a run into the area in front of the wheel and then loop it back to the trans-axle.

You may find the cable that makes the for/aft movement to be the most difficult to keep away from the exhaust.

If the cables are too close and/or without enough heat shielding, the result will be your shifter becoming difficult to move and increasing as more heat is transferred.

HTHs.

 

[Mike]

Bill -- it's been pretty quiet in your neck of the woods - how are things coming along.

 

[Bill]

I've been away from home and in Vietnam & Laos for the 3-4 weeks. We had a great time!

If you are interested in my photos, go to www.billphillips.smugmug.com/Travel

I created 3 galleries for your viewing pleasure:

• Top Tier - These are my best PICs
• Tier 2 & Oddities - Honorable mentions and curiosities
• Our Gang - PICs of people on the trip.

 

[Randy V]

Glad someone had a good time over there.. I didn't...

Welcome home!

Did you figure out your cable issues?

 

[Tom]

Going to check those out, my wife is native Lao and we've been trying to go for years. Hoping to make it happen in 2013.

 

[Ken Roberts]

That's fantastic photography Bill.

 

[Ben]

Beautiful street photography Bill. You have a good eye. What camera/lens(es) are you using?

 

[Bill]

Thanks!

My wife is actually the photo nut in the family. I borrowed her old hand-me-down Cannon 40D digital SLR and lens to use on the trip.

The glass is a Cannon 24-105 L series.

 

[Grant S]

Bill Very nice work Im thinking you have had some formal training in photograghy, these are better than good.

 

[Bill]

After a couple days recovering from jet lag, I started back on the shifter mechanism today. I've been working closely with Jim at Cableshift on updates to transaxle bracket and linkage so it will fit the shortened G50 tail case. I have the transaxle bracket on now and it fits well with few very minor modifications.

Now I'm working on the cable coupler (shift rod hat). There is only about 3" between the end of the transaxle case (at the shift rod seal) and the SLC tail section. However, the shift rod hat that Cableshift provides is 3.75" long, so I know I need to cut it down.



Here is what I see:

• When shifting gears, the shift rod slides in/out 1.25", plus 0.14" inward end play
• The hat is drilled to a depth of 1.5" to accept the G50 shift rod
• Without cutting into the drilled out section, there is 1.5" section of the hat that I could cut out and weld back together. The resulting shortened hat would be 2.25" long.
• When shifting gears, the rod goes out 1.25", plus the 2.25" hat for a total length of 3.5". That will still contact the SLC tail section.:bigcry:

One alternative is to cut 0.5" out of the shift rod drilled section, but that will reduce shift rod attachment support by about 33%. I guess that's ok since I'm shortening the rod length by 53%, but it still makes me nervious. If I'm wrong, I will have cut my G50 shift rod too short.

Another alternative is to shorten the hat to 1.5" and then weld a treaded boss on the side to accept the ball joint.

How did you all solve this clearance problem? Do you have PICs?

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Bill,

we have experienced similar issues with certain models of G50's in our RCR40's....we have shortened the black coupler and moved the ballstud closer to the open end...
This fixed all the interference issues...quite simple and easy to do..and best of all it did not effect shifting feel or accuracy

 

[Bill]

Fran,

Do you have any PICs of your shortened the black coupler?

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

I seriously doubt it...not something we have done in a long time

 

[Mike]

Bill - I know nothing about the G50 but I think somebody tackled a similar problem here: shifter - don't know if this will help or lend some ideas.