Yup, the Current Performance harness eliminated the ECU wires to the oil pressure sensor and oil temp sensor. The ECU does still need the water temp sensor to tune the fuel mixture to the heat in the motor. The additional bung I drilled in the water pump is for a separate water temp gauge for the dash.

You may have noticed that there is a factory bung in the water jacket of the passenger head as well. This could be used for a dash gauge sender, but the coolant there is 20 degrees cooler.

The Current Performance harness also included relays and heavy wiring to control / power 2 fans via the ECU.

On the fuel rail quick disconnect, I used a Dorman part that is barbed on the other end of the fitting. My SLC will be a street car so I'm using regular EFI hose instead of going the AN fitting route.
 
You may have noticed that there is a factory bung in the water jacket of the passenger head as well. This could be used for a dash gauge sender, but the coolant there is 20 degrees cooler.

Just to note, it's only 8* cooler - the reason I reported 20* was because I'd reversed my O2 wiring so when it went into closed loop mode it basically wasn't firing, so it could be used to read the water temp ..... even if you measure at the waterpump itself you'll be cooler than the driver head reading by a bit, so why go through the hassle of tapping and cleaning it out.
 
Where the money goes

Ever wonder where the money goes when you build a car? Here is a list of all the things I know of, that are needed for a SLC street car with a G50 transaxle and GM LS motor. I think this is the most common powertrain combination.

Warning: Before reading this list, it is suggested that you sit down, avoid sharp intruments and ensure your wife isn't looking over your shoulder.:shocked:


RCR Options
  • Lift kit
  • Hand brake
  • Interior panel kit
  • Gentleman's seat
  • Inner fenders
  • Adjustable pedals
  • Chrome wheel upgrade
SLC kit shipping to your garage


Tires:
  • Front: 275/35ZR18
  • Rear: 325/30ZR19
Transaxle plus the following:
  • Clutch release fork
  • Shorten G50 tail
  • Clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throw-out bearing, starter
  • Slave cylinder
  • Clutch fluid line pressure switch (prevents start unless clutch is depressed
  • Clutch release Fork Shaft Kit with bushings
Motor plus the following:
  • Assy drive
  • GM Electronic gas pedal
  • Bracket to mount the GM Electronic Throttle pedal
  • ECU
  • O2 sensors
  • MAF sensor
  • ECU & relay electrical harness
  • ECU flash to remove VATS security
  • Fuel pump, high volume low pressure to fill swirl pot/surge tank
  • Fuel pump: high volume high pressure to supply motor
  • Fuel pressure regulator for 58-60lbs for supply line to motor
  • Fuel pressure gauge for high pressure for supply line to motor
  • Fuel Swirl pot/surge tank
  • Fuel rail 3/8" Spring Lock female Connector
  • Fuel filter before pump
  • fuel filter after regulator
  • Intake MAF housing
  • Intake MAF housing to throttle body coupler
  • Intake filter
  • Oil supply adapter for oil pressure sensor (or tap it yourself)
  • Cooling expansion / fill tank
  • Radiator cap
  • Cooling water pump outlet 1.25" 90 degree elbow
  • Cooling coupler between 1.25" 90 degree elbow and hose to radiator
  • Cooling hoses
  • Front engine mount isolators
  • Rear engine mount isolators
  • LS7 exhaust headers & mid-pipe flange
  • Exhaust mufflers
  • Exhaust fabrication
  • Exhaust tips
    [*]Heat shielding for exhaust
Electrical System
  • Battery
  • Fuel gauge sender
  • Speedo Gauge sender
  • Radio, backup camera
  • horn
  • horn button
  • ignition start button
  • Fuel pump Inertia cutoff switch
Interior:
  • Sound deadening and heat insulation
  • Seatbelts
    [*]Custom upholster
Body:
  • Wire mesh for air inlets
  • Trim Paint/wrap
  • Hinges to tilt front clam
Misc (bolts, fasteners, etc)
Did I forget anything?
 
Re: Where the money goes

Ever wonder where the money goes when you build a car? Here is a list of all the things I know of, that are needed for a SLC street car with a G50 transaxle and GM LS motor. I think this is the most common powertrain combination.

Warning: Before reading this list, it is suggested that you sit down, avoid sharp intruments and ensure your wife isn't looking over your shoulder.:shocked:

RCR Options
  • Lift kit
  • Hand brake
  • Interior panel kit
  • Gentleman's seat
  • Inner fenders
  • Adjustable pedals
  • Chrome wheel upgrade
SLC kit shipping to your garage



Tires:
  • Front: 275/35ZR18
  • Rear: 325/30ZR19
Transaxle plus the following:
  • Clutch release fork
  • Shorten G50 tail
  • Clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throw-out bearing, starter
  • Slave cylinder
  • Clutch fluid line pressure switch (prevents start unless clutch is depressed
  • Clutch release Fork Shaft Kit with bushings
Motor plus the following:
  • Assy drive
  • GM Electronic gas pedal
  • Bracket to mount the GM Electronic Throttle pedal
  • ECU
  • O2 sensors
  • MAF sensor
  • ECU & relay electrical harness
  • ECU flash to remove VATS security
  • Fuel pump, high volume low pressure to fill swirl pot/surge tank
  • Fuel pump: high volume high pressure to supply motor
  • Fuel pressure regulator for 58-60lbs for supply line to motor
  • Fuel pressure gauge for high pressure for supply line to motor
  • Fuel Swirl pot/surge tank
  • Fuel rail 3/8" Spring Lock female Connector
  • Fuel filter before pump
  • fuel filter after regulator
  • Intake MAF housing
  • Intake MAF housing to throttle body coupler
  • Intake filter
  • Oil supply adapter for oil pressure sensor (or tap it yourself)
  • Cooling expansion / fill tank
  • Radiator cap
  • Cooling water pump outlet 1.25" 90 degree elbow
  • Cooling coupler between 1.25" 90 degree elbow and hose to radiator
  • Cooling hoses
  • Front engine mount isolators
  • Rear engine mount isolators
  • LS7 exhaust headers & mid-pipe flange
  • Exhaust mufflers
  • Exhaust fabrication
  • Exhaust tips
    [*]Heat shielding for exhaust
Electrical System
  • Battery
  • Fuel gauge sender
  • Speedo Gauge sender
  • Radio, backup camera
  • horn
  • horn button
  • ignition start button
  • Fuel pump Inertia cutoff switch
Interior:
  • Sound deadening and heat insulation
  • Seatbelts
    [*]Custom upholster
Body:
  • Wire mesh for air inlets
  • Trim Paint/wrap
  • Hinges to tilt front clam
Misc (bolts, fasteners, etc)
Did I forget anything?

Are you planning to use a cable shifter, Or is it included as part of the kit?

You may also want to give some thought to useing a transaxle oil cooler. I'm using a Setrab cooler kit that I bought from Erik @ G-Box.

Mike
 
G50 Tail case Surgery

I'm getting ready to shorten my G50 Tail case.

I've plotting a cut line (red) to remove as much as possible, without cutting into something important. It looks like I can cut 2 1/2" of the end without punching into oil journals or the inside of the case.


2 questions:
  1. Is 2 1/2" enough so it will fit in the SLC?
  2. What is the blue area in the PIC below? I think its just a support, and hope it doesn't open up the oil journal
Does anyone have a PIC of their shortened case?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2755.jpg
    IMG_2755.jpg
    168.7 KB · Views: 433
  • IMG_2750.jpg
    IMG_2750.jpg
    151.7 KB · Views: 452

Howard Jones

Supporter
Bill do yourself a favor and wait until you have the car in hand before you cut off the end of the gearbox. You may want to use the donut as a mount........or not. It would be hard to put back on. You may also find that the grbx will fit fine with it on. You won't know until you have the car.

Waiting until you can measure things will save you a lot of money and give you more time to think.
 
The end plate or side shift options that CA Motorsports offer look like nice options and would clean the back up nicely as different option also. This way you would not have to worry about cutting the mount off.
 
Yup, its a G50/20. Its stamped on the case. Its a 6 speed transaxle from a 1995-98 993 Carrera 2.

I have the same exact trans. I was told it was also a LSD. If you figure out just where to drill the holes for the oil cooler in and out let me know. I still have not ordered the flywheel or clutch yet. Soon.
 
Bill do yourself a favor and wait until you have the car in hand before you cut off the end of the gearbox. You may want to use the donut as a mount........or not. It would be hard to put back on. You may also find that the grbx will fit fine with it on. You won't know until you have the car.

Waiting until you can measure things will save you a lot of money and give you more time to think.

I concur.

Aren't you expecting delivery this month?:)
 
Howard,

Too late, I already cut the donut off the case. I went the weld-less approach and shortened it about 2 1/4" -2 1/2" . That's as far as you can go with a G50/20 (6 speed) without cutting into the oil passages and other internals.

Bigfoot, Ben & Eglitom,

Thanks for the PICs. They were very helpful.

The case is currently at a local machine shop getting a 2 step bore for the linear bearing and seal. I'll have PICs soon.
 
I finished shortening my G50/20 6 Speed.


After I cut the case, I took it to a local machine shop to get a 2 step bore for the linear bearing and seal.


The seal has a “Press” fit that exerts a fair amount of pressure on the surrounding aluminum when pressed into place. After the cut, the aluminum case that surrounds the seal is a bit thinner than the original. To reduce the stress on the thinner aluminum, increase the seal’s bore .001” - .002” (I.E from .949” to .950” of .0951”). This provides a “Bump” fit which means the seal fits snuggly, but does not require a press or hammer to insert it. The linear bearing should remain a Press fit.


The end result is a nearly square cut with the end of the case. The final length of the shortened case is 7 ¼”. I finished it off by grinding down the cut lines for a more OEM look.


I struggled trying to find information on how to shorten the the G50 tail case. So I trolled this forum and other forums/blogs to understand exactly what to do. My apprehension was compounded by the anxiety of cutting into a transaxle that cost more than a used Corolla. Here is a 16 page document below with the information I collected on shortening 5 speed and 6 speed transaxles. I hope you fine these instructions helpful -> https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2mA517zVglRTHlDZ2c5NUFNb0U

I put this information on the Transaxle Mounting thread as well...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2761.jpg
    IMG_2761.jpg
    107.9 KB · Views: 344
  • IMG_2762.JPG
    IMG_2762.JPG
    235.9 KB · Views: 345
  • IMG_2763.jpg
    IMG_2763.jpg
    228.7 KB · Views: 327
Last edited:
Back
Top